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> Sight Replacement
swgmc07
post Jan 18 2009, 08:56 PM
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How hard is it to change the sights on an M&P? I have done this to other pistols, but not the M&P. I know there is about a 1/16" set screw in the rear sight, is there anything holding the front sight, or will a punch do the job? Thanks.
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RH45
post Jan 20 2009, 10:13 PM
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QUOTE (swgmc07 @ Jan 18 2009, 08:56 PM) *
How hard is it to change the sights on an M&P? I have done this to other pistols, but not the M&P. I know there is about a 1/16" set screw in the rear sight, is there anything holding the front sight, or will a punch do the job? Thanks.


Once you loosen the set screw in the rear sight, you will still have to use a brass, or aluminum punch to remove it, but , it isn't that tight (IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumbsup.gif)

Although I haven't taken out my front sight, from what I've read, they are REALLY tight! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wallbash.gif)
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David
post Jan 20 2009, 11:05 PM
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the firing pin block (plunger) is located under the rear sight on the ejection port side, when you remove the sight do so slowly otherwise the disc and spring to the plunger will fly across the room and it's tiny so it will be hard to find.

This post has been edited by David: Jan 20 2009, 11:07 PM
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mbott
post Jan 26 2009, 01:17 AM
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QUOTE (RH45 @ Jan 20 2009, 05:13 PM) *
Although I haven't taken out my front sight, from what I've read, they are REALLY tight!


As the resident S&W armorer at work, I can tell you that it seems that the front sights are getting harder to remove. The last couple I've swapped out for night sights have been a real b*tch to remove. Either that, or I'm just getting older.

--
Mike
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Craig1090
post Jan 26 2009, 01:40 AM
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I just switched out both of my sights, and it was not too difficult. Like another poster said, just watch out for the plunger spring and disc! I put a ziploc bag over the rear of the slide and drifted the rear sight out, that way the ziploc bag caught the spring and disc.

For the front sight, I just put some penetrating oil in the dovetail and let it sit for 30 mins. After that, the front sight drifted out without even needing to put the slide in a vice. Of course, YMMV. Good luck!
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RH45
post Jan 26 2009, 02:34 AM
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QUOTE (Craig1090 @ Jan 26 2009, 01:40 AM) *
I just switched out both of my sights, and it was not too difficult. Like another poster said, just watch out for the plunger spring and disc! I put a ziploc bag over the rear of the slide and drifted the rear sight out, that way the ziploc bag caught the spring and disc.

For the front sight, I just put some penetrating oil in the dovetail and let it sit for 30 mins. After that, the front sight drifted out without even needing to put the slide in a vice. Of course, YMMV. Good luck!


It sounds like you really lucked out! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumbsup.gif)

They say that even a blind squirrel finds a nut in the woods every now and then (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol.gif)
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choochboost
post Jan 26 2009, 02:43 AM
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Out - left to right
In - right to left
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Haji
post Feb 17 2009, 05:30 AM
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I removed the rear sight on my 9mm with a gunsmith's hammer and a delrin punch. After loosening the set screw, it came out easily. Where I ran into problems was that the 10-8 rear sight I wanted in there was too large for the sight cut. I ended up having a "gunsmith" fit it for me. It ended up well centered, but he beat the edge of the sight body up some putting it in. At least it's not going anywhere.
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HowardCohodas
post Feb 17 2009, 08:09 AM
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I tried to get a smith around here to change my sights. Only one agreed to do it, but warned that he would likely mar the slide and he would not be responsible for any repairs. I acquired an MGW tool to replace my M&P 45fs sights myself. The only difficulty I had was my own ignorance. The included instructions were without pictures. I'm documenting what I learned with words and pictures so I can remember the next time. I would recommend the tool for the novice if you take your time. It took me an hour, but I think I could do it in 10 minutes now that I have done it once. The tool is designed such that it is nearly impossible to mar the slide.

A plastic bag to catch the spring and cap under the rear sight is essential. Also, getting the cap and spring back in to install the new rear sight can be tricky, but I persisted and figured it out.
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David
post Feb 17 2009, 08:25 AM
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another graphic i made for my fellow novices. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumbsup.gif)

(IMG:http://s244.photobucket.com/albums/gg10/imdavid/sights.jpg)
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batpot
post Feb 17 2009, 11:20 PM
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QUOTE (David @ Feb 17 2009, 12:25 AM) *


nice!

I just had mine done at a local range for $40.
I hope he knew about the firing pin block spring; I mentioned it had the mag safety, and he knew about pushing the sear lever down, so he seemed familiar with the gun...
It cycles and dry fires fine, so I suspect everything is good to go?
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HighPockets
post Feb 21 2009, 02:37 PM
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I installed some Warren Tactical sights on my 9.
As stated before the front was a beast to remove and install. I ended up polishing some of the new front sight's base off with a stone to get it in all the way to center, this gave it more room between the dovetails. Still very tight. As to marring up the finish, I was sure to buy some brass stock that fit the parts (McMasterCarr.com) to use as drifts. The brass marks left over when done were removed with some Hoppes #9 and a bronze brush. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumbup.gif)
That's what worked for me.
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tblankenship
post Feb 26 2009, 02:25 AM
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I tried to remove mine with a brass punch with the slide in a vise, but I could not get either of them to budge. I found a local S&W dealer whose gunsmith would do it for free :-) He used the tool from S&W and said they were very tight.

Even worse, the Ameriglo rear I had for him to install was a bit oversized and he ended up breaking it trying to get it in. The customer service at Ameriglo was great thought and sent me out a new one for free. The replacement one was so loose that the gunsmith didn't even need the tool to install it.

I have a question. The gunsmith said that he did not use a drop of loctite because it is not recommended. That seems to contradict what I've read in this forum. Should I go back and have him use loctite? The other option is that I could just do it myself.

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David
post Feb 26 2009, 02:33 AM
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QUOTE (tblankenship @ Feb 26 2009, 02:25 AM) *
I tried to remove mine with a brass punch with the slide in a vise, but I could not get either of them to budge. I found a local S&W dealer whose gunsmith would do it for free :-) He used the tool from S&W and said they were very tight.

Even worse, the Ameriglo rear I had for him to install was a bit oversized and he ended up breaking it trying to get it in. The customer service at Ameriglo was great thought and sent me out a new one for free. The replacement one was so loose that the gunsmith didn't even need the tool to install it.

I have a question. The gunsmith said that he did not use a drop of loctite because it is not recommended. That seems to contradict what I've read in this forum. Should I go back and have him use loctite? The other option is that I could just do it myself.



yes on the loctite, use it. but how did he manage to break a rear sight? just wondering what part broke?
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tblankenship
post Feb 26 2009, 01:36 PM
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QUOTE (David @ Feb 25 2009, 08:33 PM) *
yes on the loctite, use it. but how did he manage to break a rear sight? just wondering what part broke?

He broke a small part of the front corner off of each side. I didn't get to watch him do it, but I assume it was from trying to force it in.
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HowardCohodas
post Feb 26 2009, 06:13 PM
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QUOTE (tblankenship @ Feb 26 2009, 08:36 AM) *
He broke a small part of the front corner off of each side. I didn't get to watch him do it, but I assume it was from trying to force it in.


I'm having a hard time visualizing that. If you still have them, a picture would help.

If your sights like these, I'm having a hard time seeing how something like the MGW tool made specifically for the M&P could have caused that damage.

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HowardCohodas
post Feb 26 2009, 06:22 PM
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QUOTE (tblankenship @ Feb 25 2009, 09:25 PM) *
Even worse, the Ameriglo rear I had for him to install was a bit oversized and he ended up breaking it trying to get it in. The customer service at Ameriglo was great thought and sent me out a new one for free. The replacement one was so loose that the gunsmith didn't even need the tool to install it.

I have a question. The gunsmith said that he did not use a drop of loctite because it is not recommended. That seems to contradict what I've read in this forum. Should I go back and have him use loctite? The other option is that I could just do it myself.


I'm a novice at this and have experience with only one installation and one brand of sights. I installed Warren Tactical 2-dot sights using the MGW tool for the MP. The rear sights were very tight going in. I never used anything more than hand strength and I turned the crank at the top of my strength range. I considered removing the rear sight to remove some material. I removed the rear sight when it was not even half way in. Before I removed any material, I wanted to take a measurement so I pushed it back in. It went in easier and past the point where it was in before. I ended up not removing any material abrasively, but used this in and out method to get it positioned properly.

OK, you more experienced people, several questions. Was my method appropriate? If not, have I done any permanent damage to the dovetail slot or the sight? Why is loctite needed when there is a set screw?
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David
post Feb 26 2009, 08:22 PM
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QUOTE (HowardCohodas @ Feb 26 2009, 06:22 PM) *
Why is loctite needed when there is a set screw?



to lock the set screw (IMG:style_emoticons/default/).gif)
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HowardCohodas
post Feb 26 2009, 08:27 PM
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QUOTE (David @ Feb 26 2009, 03:22 PM) *
to lock the set screw (IMG:style_emoticons/default/).gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/blushing.gif)
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David
post Feb 26 2009, 08:35 PM
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QUOTE (HowardCohodas @ Feb 26 2009, 08:27 PM) *


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumbsup.gif)

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