Light hits on primers Options

[fixitguy]

I recently completed the trigger job on my M&P9, the pull is smooth, the break is crisp, and the reset is positive and all in only about a 1/4" of total travel (THANKS DAN!) I even made a small shim to take up the excessive creep in the trigger. The only problem I have been having is with light hits on primers. I have fired over 3000 rounds of WWB before the trigger job and have never had a single failure of any kind! Now I am having a FTF problem due to light hits on the primers. I thought that I may have accidently removed some metal off the top of the trigger bar, so I bought a new one and carefully polished it but I am still having this problem. This past weekend I borrowed some reloaded bullets (remington primers) and had not one failure. So, before I go and invest in a press and start loading, I was hoping for any input from others who may have had this problem.

Thanks!

[Dan Burwell]

You may have rounded over the fp stop plunger too much not allowing it to get fully out of the way of the striker. Just a thought.

[fixitguy]

I didn't round the plunger as much as shown in the pictures and was very careful not to take any off the top of the plunger. Tonight I took a bright light and was able to watch the trigger bar push the plunger up before the the sear breaks. I did order a new striker assembly and sear but they are back ordered. I figure I will put stock parts back in and change things one at a time to try and isolate the problem, but was unable to order a new plunger.

Of course I could go buy a Dillon press and a boatload of Federal primers.....

[coltman1985]

You will eventually get the Dillon anyway!! (IMG:http://mp-pistol.com/boards/style_emoticons/default/p.gif)

[fixitguy]

Figured out my problem regarding the light hits.....

In the pictures of the trigger job, when it shows the striker being polished, the "foot" (for lack of a better word) looked like it was filed flat then polished, so this is what I did. Well that 1/16" or so that I removed reduced the amount of force with which the striker impacted the primer since less overall compression was put on the striker spring. I replaced the striker with a new one, properly polished and have since fired over 500 rounds of WWB without a single problem. The trigger still works VERY well, smooth and crisp! I have also added a small piece of plastic between the top of the trigger and the frame which has taken up most of the extra creep in the trigger.

Thanks Dan!

[mike cyrwus]

when you say creep, I think you mean pre-travel, or take-up.
Creep is a longer than desired sear engagement that results in a non-crisp break.

yes?

[fixitguy]

yes...LOL

The piece of plastic makes the total travel about 3/8". It does cause the drop safety on the trigger to be non-functional, but I only use the pistol for competition and wouldnt do it if it was my carry gun.