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Need Serious Help

This is a discussion on Need Serious Help within the Knife and Light forums, part of the Armory category; I'm basically a Gerber or Leatherman guy. That's what I was issued in military (handy in the field with electronic equipment and no one happens ...


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Old March 23rd, 2012, 06:06 PM   #1
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I'm basically a Gerber or Leatherman guy. That's what I was issued in military (handy in the field with electronic equipment and no one happens to have a 3/16 wrench handy)....But I need something a little heavier duty to go with my bug out gear.



Here's the deal. I can't sharpen a knife worth a big harry rat's rear end. I bought a fairly expensive Bench Made, and the blade was so hard I couldn't sharpen it, in fact to keep for ruining it, I didn't try to hard after I figured out how hard the steel was. No wonder Bench Made offers a life time free sharpening, apparently I'm not the only one. Traded it away for something.



I need a knife, non-serrated, that can handle the needs of a large knife, but made with a milder steel that I can sharpen it. (Hard to send a Bench Made in during a bug out). Second, these outrageous "custome house" knives with a price tag bigger than my new truck is out of the question.



I was looking at a K-Bar, with the new ("rubber", Kraytex I think) handle. But not sure if it's worth it, but if they still issue these to Marines, they must at least be fairly decent? Am I right? How about some suggestions.





Softer blade for easy sharpening - a must.



No outrageously priced custom made knives. Just can't afford them, and I think most of them are as hard as the Bench Made was.



Still need a very servicable knive for heavier work in woods.



Your expertise and time is greatly appreciated. Also, if you reply, it would be great if you gave a reason for your suggestion.



Thanks Ahead,



J.
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Old March 23rd, 2012, 06:22 PM   #2
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I have found the several Buck knifes owned through the years to be very effective and not difficult to sharpen. They may not be the latest flashy style but have handeled my Deer, Elk etc. without a whimper for the past 55 years.



TOF



PS: The angle they are sharpened to doesn't match what my hands want to do making the first sharpening a bit longer than subsequent cycles. Once the angle is set resharpening is a breeze. My Buck folder can gut and skin a big Elk without resharpening.
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Old March 23rd, 2012, 06:43 PM   #3
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Get another Bench Made and have an old Logger teach you how to sharpen it with a grinder (and show you how to re-temper the blade if he grinds it) and hand file like he would his old timber axe and fine tune it with a stone. You'll be able to shave with it and it'll hold a edge for a long time (provided you stay outa the "rocks" with it) You get what you pay for with those "custom house" knives, the cheap-o knives and the softer blades. Softer blade dulls easier and wares out faster and ALWAYS needs to be sharpened, softer blades break easier too. Remember, with all the look-a-likes, not every K-Bar is a real K-Bar.



Knife sharpening isn't hard, it's a skill that just needs to be passed down and learned from some one that still knows that old skill.
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Old March 23rd, 2012, 07:00 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MaddMax View Post
Get another Bench Made and have an old Logger teach you how to sharpen it with a grinder (and show you how to re-temper the blade if he grinds it) and hand file like he would his old timber axe and fine tune it with a stone. You'll be able to shave with it and it'll hold a edge for a long time (provided you stay outa the "rocks" with it) You get what you pay for with those "custom house" knives, the cheap-o knives and the softer blades. Softer blade dulls easier and wares out faster and ALWAYS needs to be sharpened, softer blades break easier too. Remember, with all the look-a-likes, not every K-Bar is a real K-Bar.



Knife sharpening isn't hard, it's a skill that just needs to be passed down and learned from some one that still knows that old skill.
Thanks MaddMax, but you didn't answer my question. I know softer blades are easier to sharpen and need to be sharpened more often. The K-Bar I'm looking at is a real K-Bar. And I'm sure those "custom" knives are worth every penny...now next person please, and please read origional post, and answer the questions I asked. Would really appreciate it rather than just the opposite.



J.
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Old March 24th, 2012, 03:17 AM   #5
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http://www.poorfish.com/p-8003-cold-...eath-38ck.aspx
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Old March 24th, 2012, 07:41 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by jbylake View Post
Thanks MaddMax, but you didn't answer my question. I know softer blades are easier to sharpen and need to be sharpened more often. The K-Bar I'm looking at is a real K-Bar. And I'm sure those "custom" knives are worth every penny...now next person please, and please read origional post, and answer the questions I asked. Would really appreciate it rather than just the opposite.



J.




Sorry I bothered.
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Old March 24th, 2012, 08:10 AM   #7
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Here is a more specific suggestion.



I have one of these and like it.



What is your definition of "Large".



http://www.bladeauthority.com/Buck_Vanguard_s/522.htm
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Old March 24th, 2012, 10:46 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TOF View Post
What is your definition of "Large".



http://www.bladeauth...guard_s/522.htm
Guess I should have been more specific. I'd think 5 to 6" should do it. I can, and have gutted and field dressed a deer with a pocket knife. I need something for a skinner, and de-boner, cutting meat or chopping through thick branches, and an all around knife good enough to use as a survival knife, that my Leatherman wouldn't be useful for.. Milder steel. I know the milder steel needs to be sharpened more often, but I can sharpen one. I just have a hell of a time trying to keep one of the "newer" super hard blades sharp. If I stay on top of the hard steel variety, especially the ceramic metal blades, I can usually keep them sharp, but if I use one, and dull it, I just can't for the life of me get them shape again. That's why I mentioned earlier that on Benchmade's website I see they're offering free lifettime sharpening. So I'm guessin I wasn't the only one running into that problem.

Thanks,



J.
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Old March 24th, 2012, 11:46 AM   #9
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You want 1095 steel. It will rust easily if you don't maintain it, but it's a favorite for hard use. Strong and sharpens afield.



Per your needs: all 1095 carbon steel.

Standard KA-BAR. $60-80

Ontario has a KA-BAR copycat, the SP1 Marine Combat. $40-50

Ontario RAT-5, RAT-7, TAK-1. $70-120

ESEE-4, ESEE-6. $70-120

Becker BK-2 Campanion. $100-120
 
Old March 24th, 2012, 01:24 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bralko85 View Post
You want 1095 steel. It will rust easily if you don't maintain it, but it's a favorite for hard use. Strong and sharpens afield.



Per your needs: all 1095 carbon steel.

Standard KA-BAR. $60-80

Ontario has a KA-BAR copycat, the SP1 Marine Combat. $40-50

Ontario RAT-5, RAT-7, TAK-1. $70-120

ESEE-4, ESEE-6. $70-120

Becker BK-2 Campanion. $100-120
These are good suggestions. 1095 will rust/stain while your looking at it. Who cares? Remember in another time, the local Butcher would make a few cuts, then he would use a steel to bring the edge back. As long as the blade will catch on your finger nail, it's good to go. When it starts skipping, then touch it up.
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Old March 24th, 2012, 05:34 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bralko85 View Post
You want 1095 steel. It will rust easily if you don't maintain it, but it's a favorite for hard use. Strong and sharpens afield.



Per your needs: all 1095 carbon steel.

Standard KA-BAR. $60-80

Ontario has a KA-BAR copycat, the SP1 Marine Combat. $40-50

Ontario RAT-5, RAT-7, TAK-1. $70-120

ESEE-4, ESEE-6. $70-120

Becker BK-2 Campanion. $100-120
Thanks, these look like they will do nicely. Thanks to AT also. I can sacrifice a little time in maintaining the knive, an occasional wipe with a silicon cloth will do nicely. I also understand the advantages of the "hard" steel knives, but they don't do me much good, like I said, I could never get them re-sharpened very well. So what I give up in plain balls out durability, I gain in practicality and usefulness. A knife that I can keep sharp is worth something to me in the field. A knife I can't sharpen, no matter what the quality, is only useful as long as it's sharp. This is exactly what I was trying to explain in my origional post. I think I'll shop around for best price and buy one tonight.



J.
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Old March 24th, 2012, 08:48 PM   #12
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Why not get a quality electric knife sharpener, namely a Chef'sChoice® product. One would be able to take care of even your hard steel knives and you being a sharpening n00b one of these sharpeners would do a lot better job than you could and in less time, particularly an M130 or M120.





Manufacturers site

http://www.edgecraft.com/page2a.html



Google price list for M130

http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=chef'schoice+m130&hl=en&safe=off&prmd=im vns&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=10139192251270746219&sa=X&ei=vqFu T9--J4frtgfb04WBAg&ved=0CG8Q8wIwAA#scoring=tp



Reviews on the M130

http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=chef'schoice+m130&hl=en&safe=off&prmd=im vns&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=10139192251270746219&sa=X&ei=vqFu T9--J4frtgfb04WBAg&ved=0CG8Q8wIwAA#scoring=tp



This place seems to have the best price for the M130 - $129 shipped, totally worth it to fix up the old knives!

http://www.rrarms.com/catalog.php?prod=C130







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Old March 24th, 2012, 11:25 PM   #13
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Esee makes an exceptional knife. The ESEE-5 can field dress and quarter an elk without resharpening, help start a fire while you wait for your buddy's GF to bring the spare set of keys, and finally to break the glass when she stops looking for your elk camp and heads back home (yeah, it happened).



Edit: Too bad it doesn't come with a key ring so your buddy won't lock 'em in the truck.
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Old March 25th, 2012, 12:24 AM   #14
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Post up when you get it.
 
Old March 25th, 2012, 08:45 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jasonuscg View Post
Why not get a quality electric knife sharpener, namely a Chef'sChoice® product. One would be able to take care of even your hard steel knives and you being a sharpening n00b one of these sharpeners would do a lot better job than you could and in less time, particularly an M130 or M120.





Manufacturers site

http://www.edgecraft.com/page2a.html



Google price list for M130

http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=chef'schoice+m130&hl=en&safe=off&prmd=im vns&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=10139192251270746219&sa=X&ei=vqFu T9--J4frtgfb04WBAg&ved=0CG8Q8wIwAA#scoring=tp



Reviews on the M130

http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=chef'schoice+m130&hl=en&safe=off&prmd=im vns&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=10139192251270746219&sa=X&ei=vqFu T9--J4frtgfb04WBAg&ved=0CG8Q8wIwAA#scoring=tp



This place seems to have the best price for the M130 - $129 shipped, totally worth it to fix up the old knives!

http://www.rrarms.co...g.php?prod=C130





Jason, don't think I could carry this in the field



Actually, I can sharpen a knife. I just never had any luck with those super hard blades. Just gave up and started looking for something like those recommended. Easy to sharpen at home or in the field.



J.
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