This is a discussion on How I firmed up my manual safety. within the MP Gunsmithing forums, part of the Smith & Wesson MP Forum category; WARNING *******Modifications to any handgun should only be attempted by a competent gunsmith. Do not try this yourself. This post is provided for information only. ...
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|June 7th, 2010, 11:12 AM||#1|
Join Date: Oct 2007
*******Modifications to any handgun should only be attempted by a competent gunsmith. Do not try this yourself. This post is provided for information only. I assume no responsibility for your negligence.*****
I found the manual safety on my M&P 45 to be a little less positive that I would prefer. I decided to see if I could firm up the feel myself.
First I made sure the pistol was unloaded. I then field stripped and removed the sear block. Upon observing the safety lever and detent I found that the notch in the safety lever was ramped to allow for a smooth and relatively light throw of the lever from the on or Safe position.
Here is a picture showing the detent/lever in the off or Fire position. Note the ramp on the lower notch.
Here is a picture of the safety lever removed from the sear block.
In order to increase the effort required to take take the weapon off Safe I used a round needle file to re-profile and deepen the lower or Safe notch. I checked my progress often and stopped filing when I had the resistance I desired. During the process I used a punch of the appropriate diameter to hold the lever in position in the sear block and test the actuation of the lever.
This is what I ended up with:
I then function checked the weapon. The safety is now much less likely to be accidentally taken off safe. It now requires a deliberate and firm pressure to move the safety to Fire.
|June 7th, 2010, 05:33 PM||#3|
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Salish Sea
Thanks for posting! This would be something to consider if I ever got a manual safety model, not likely for me though.
I think there should be a modification sub-forum and this needs to be "stickied."
|June 7th, 2010, 07:30 PM||#4|
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: The Colony, Tx
I agree. I also noticed my full size 9mm would easily be taken off safety while carrying in an iwb holster. Thanks for sharing....
|June 7th, 2010, 08:06 PM||#6|
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Millcreek, Utah
Now why doesn't it surprise me that you'd use a dental drill?
|June 9th, 2010, 12:59 PM||#9|
Join Date: Oct 2007
Village Photos site seems to be down at the moment.
|August 14th, 2010, 06:18 PM||#11|
Join Date: Feb 2010
I made this same mod to my .45c. I used a small triangle file and filed on the outsides of the 'W' only. From the factory there was almost no resistance in the safety. Now there's a nice solid "snick" just like my 1911's.
|August 14th, 2010, 07:39 PM||#13|
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Rural NE Iowa
Same here no manual safety and not likely in the future either.
But I do agree. A modification sub-forum is a reasonable idea.
|August 16th, 2010, 05:11 PM||#14|
Join Date: Mar 2010
I was debating sending my M&P 45C back to S&W for the same issue. I'm concerned that as easy as it is to disengage, it is just as easy to engage. Not the thing you want happening in a heated situation. You would think this is a lawsuit waiting to happen and S&W wouldn't let a firearm out of the factory like that. My full size M&P 45 doesn't have this problem. Safety is nice and positive.
|September 7th, 2010, 03:26 PM||#15|
Join Date: Jun 2010
I don't know much about gunsmithing and the M&P but is it possible to add a thumb saftey on an M&P that does not have one from the factory?
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