New M&P shooter istalling FSST and stuff

This is a discussion on New M&P shooter istalling FSST and stuff within the MP Gunsmithing forums, part of the Smith & Wesson MP Forum category; Just ordered the FSST for my 9 and thought I would ask if there were any things I should smoothe or clean up while installing ...


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Old January 19th, 2013, 11:25 AM   #1
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New M&P shooter istalling FSST and stuff

Just ordered the FSST for my 9 and thought I would ask if there were any things I should smoothe or clean up while installing the FSST?
Thanks for your help.
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Old January 19th, 2013, 11:29 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by golfer View Post
Just ordered the FSST for my 9 and thought I would ask if there were any things I should smoothe or clean up while installing the FSST?
Thanks for your help.
I personally like to polish most of the trigger components (sear, trigger bar, striker, safety plunger)

Not necessary, but worth the work in my opinion. You can use this link as a guide. Good luck
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Old January 20th, 2013, 12:34 PM   #3
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Avedis; thanks for the link, just what I was looking for.
Best to you.
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Old January 20th, 2013, 06:26 PM   #4
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Apex fss&t
just installed fsst on my 9mm, the only proublm i ran in to was thr sear take down leaver it is inop. talked to a gunsmith he told me it would not affect the operation of the gun. 2 options #1 do nothing use trigger to feild strip the gun. #2 file and pollish the cam lobe on the takedown leaver. (sear bottoms out before the sear leaver fullly engages)
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Old January 20th, 2013, 06:32 PM   #5
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did i tell you it went from a 8.5 pull to 4 lbs omg its great
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Old January 20th, 2013, 06:42 PM   #6
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@Avedis

What polish do you recommend?
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Old January 20th, 2013, 09:27 PM   #7
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What polish do you recommend?
We use Arkansas stones and a gunsmith's steel to polish the trigger.

The Shield's trigger loop has an compound angle, a divot of sorts, to provide a more tactile reset experience. That can't be polished with a straight tool unless it could bend to fit. I've used a few strokes with 2000 grit wet sandpaper wrapped around a 1" dowel, but be careful not to cut into that flat edge on the top of the trigger loop.
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Old January 21st, 2013, 07:27 AM   #8
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@Avedis

What polish do you recommend?
I ended up using some automotive metal polish I had laying around the garage. It worked fine. I know a lot of people in the shooting community are using FLITZ polish to do their trigger components.

I may do a video tutorial in the future because a lot of people have been asking about it.
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Old January 21st, 2013, 06:46 PM   #9
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Migon.....; are you talking about the take down lever that is depressed to remove the slide?
Can this be omitted or is in important part of the system? I'm not sure I've figured out why it is used to lock the slide.
Thanks for everyone for your help and best wishes.
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Old January 22nd, 2013, 11:32 AM   #10
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Migon.....; are you talking about the take down lever that is depressed to remove the slide?
Migonzalez662 is not talking about the external take down lever, but about the internal Sear Deactivation Lever which pivots the sear out of the striker's path, so the slide can be removed without pulling the trigger.

Pulling the trigger to take down an "empty" firearm (in practice often done in clear violation of the rules of firearm safety) is a dangerous procedure adopted by Gaston Glock in a effort to make a simpler/cheaper firearm. This lapse in safety protocol has been universally accepted as a de-facto standard by legions of Glock's loyal minions... along with that ridiculous reset clank.

Quote:
Can this be omitted or is in important part of the system?
The takedown lever is an important part of the M&P Pistol platform and cannot be omitted from a functioning M&P pistol.

Last edited by KRWeiss; January 22nd, 2013 at 11:34 AM.
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Old January 22nd, 2013, 06:31 PM   #11
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KR: Thanks for your help. If I comprehand correctly, you are speaking about pulling the trigger prior to takedown which is something I do not consider un safe as I do it quite often when I dry fire a pistol.
On the other hand, I don't mind leaving it in, just that it is a Pita IMO to a simple breakdown. If it has to stay, so be it, but do I have to like it?
Please straighten me out if this is incorrect.
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Old January 22nd, 2013, 06:58 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by golfer View Post
Migon.....; are you talking about the take down lever that is depressed to remove the slide?
Can this be omitted or is in important part of the system? I'm not sure I've figured out why it is used to lock the slide.
Thanks for everyone for your help and best wishes.
It can be omitted my smith is altering mine to make it work
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Old January 22nd, 2013, 08:31 PM   #13
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Please straighten me out if this is incorrect.
"Migon" used the term "sear take down" instead of sear deactivation lever, you asked about the Takedown Lever which is another part altogeher which has nothing to do with the sear.
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Old January 25th, 2013, 07:32 PM   #14
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Thanks KR, I was talking about the lever you have to move inside the slide before it can be removed, proper termonology is " sear deactivation lever".
I haven't studied why it needs to be there, and it seems strange to me to have to minipulate it. I'm an old 1911 guy, so a lot of things are strange to me.
It would be more to my liking if I only had to remove the "take down lever" to remove the slide and not mess with the "sear deactivation lever"
Best wishes to you.
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