trigger job - MP-Pistol Forum

trigger job

This is a discussion on trigger job within the MP Gunsmithing forums, part of the Smith & Wesson MP Forum category; I'd like to get a better trigger on my ported M&P. The OEM trigger isn't terrible, but I'd like it to be better. I'd also ...


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Old January 15th, 2016, 06:28 AM   #1
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trigger job

I'd like to get a better trigger on my ported M&P. The OEM trigger isn't terrible, but I'd like it to be better.

I'd also like to get the trigger on my 9c better. I don't have the tools to do the mod's. I've tried to contact Dan Burwell, but I assume he either doesn't work on them anymore or has too much going on as he hasn't gotten back to me.

Does anyone know of other competent folks who can perform this work?

TIA!
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Old January 15th, 2016, 08:51 AM   #2
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Have you checked with Apex Tactical? Their trigger parts are probably the most popular aftermarket updates for the M&P series.

Welcome to Apex Tactical Specialties, Inc.
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Old January 15th, 2016, 10:39 AM   #3
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OP,

One huge fallacy when it comes to M&P trigger improvements is that you have to replace a lot of stuff or have it done by a pro. The truth of the matter is that you really only have to change the sear to make the first and biggest improvement in the trigger feel.

By simply changing the stock sear with an Apex Tactical sear, and using only a punch to drive out one roll pin, you can easily change the sear. There are many vids showing how this is done, and any one can do it. While the sear block is out, it is suggested that you also polish a few of the engagement surfaces of the trigger group, and there are many vids to show how this is done as well.

Sear for Shield: https://store.apextactical.com/WebDi...Details/191841

Sear for 9c: https://store.apextactical.com/WebDi...Details/191852

Hope that helps.
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Old January 15th, 2016, 01:10 PM   #4
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I installed the Apex forward set trigger but it moved the trigger too far forward for me. Why do manufacturers assume everyone wants a "long trigger"!!?? So I removed the trigger and kept all of the other parts and used the OEM trigger. It seemed to me that the trigger break was still forward more than w/o the Apex parts. I wound up pulling all of the parts out.

Maybe I need to install them one at a time and find out what moved the trigger forward and just keep that out of the mix. I think I might be able to tweak the trigger bar to move the break to the rear. That would help me quite a bit.

I'd really like to have an M&P trigger w/o all of that takeup. Something more like a 1911 trigger. I was looking at it the other night to see what could be done to move the at rest trigger closer to the break point. But I don't know if that will move me out of Production Optics division (officially known as Carry Optics). I also don't know if it'll screw up the M&P trigger function.

I suppose it's just parts and Brownells has all sorts of them. If no one wants to do the work I'll just "play". Then after it's done I'll know the M&P trigger.

BTW, I talked to an engineer at Apex and he told me definitively that their parts WOULD NOT work with a factory trigger. My gun must be unique then because they worked fine with it, just not the way I wanted.

I'm still looking for trigger job from someone competent, but failing that I can spend the time and figure it out.
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Old January 16th, 2016, 05:14 AM   #5
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Like gglass said, replacing the sear with the Apex will definitely improve the trigger. In my case, the trigger was still kind of gritty but replacing the firing pin block with the Apex fixed that as well. Together, the two parts have given me a fairly good trigger - smooth with just a little creep.
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Old January 16th, 2016, 06:37 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianK View Post
I installed the Apex forward set trigger but it moved the trigger too far forward for me. Why do manufacturers assume everyone wants a "long trigger"!!?? So I removed the trigger and kept all of the other parts and used the OEM trigger. It seemed to me that the trigger break was still forward more than w/o the Apex parts. I wound up pulling all of the parts out.

Maybe I need to install them one at a time and find out what moved the trigger forward and just keep that out of the mix. I think I might be able to tweak the trigger bar to move the break to the rear. That would help me quite a bit.

I'd really like to have an M&P trigger w/o all of that takeup. Something more like a 1911 trigger. I was looking at it the other night to see what could be done to move the at rest trigger closer to the break point. But I don't know if that will move me out of Production Optics division (officially known as Carry Optics). I also don't know if it'll screw up the M&P trigger function.

I suppose it's just parts and Brownells has all sorts of them. If no one wants to do the work I'll just "play". Then after it's done I'll know the M&P trigger.

BTW, I talked to an engineer at Apex and he told me definitively that their parts WOULD NOT work with a factory trigger. My gun must be unique then because they worked fine with it, just not the way I wanted.

I'm still looking for trigger job from someone competent, but failing that I can spend the time and figure it out.
I'm sorry I guess I'm misunderstanding something. Are you saying that you tried the Apex FSS Trigger Kit? If that's not the one you tried and you want to approximate a 1911 trigger, then it is the one to try.
I put this kit in my Pro Series .40 and I think it comes about as close to a 1911 feel as I'm likely to get.
It's not just me either. Several people have tried my gun and said so, as well as, other folks on this forum who have put the kit in their guns. I'm not trying to start an argument, just looking for clarification on which Apex kit you tried.
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Old January 17th, 2016, 12:10 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianK View Post
I installed the Apex forward set trigger but it moved the trigger too far forward for me. Why do manufacturers assume everyone wants a "long trigger"!!?? So I removed the trigger and kept all of the other parts and used the OEM trigger. It seemed to me that the trigger break was still forward more than w/o the Apex parts. I wound up pulling all of the parts out.
Apex doesn't assume you want a "long trigger". They offer parts that leave the break alone and they offer the forward set series that move the break forward.

Externally visible trigger modifications will knock you out of Production. Anything internal that is still safe should be acceptable.
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Old January 17th, 2016, 09:10 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill in Tx View Post
I'm sorry I guess I'm misunderstanding something. Are you saying that you tried the Apex FSS Trigger Kit? If that's not the one you tried and you want to approximate a 1911 trigger, then it is the one to try.
I put this kit in my Pro Series .40 and I think it comes about as close to a 1911 feel as I'm likely to get.
It's not just me either. Several people have tried my gun and said so, as well as, other folks on this forum who have put the kit in their guns. I'm not trying to start an argument, just looking for clarification on which Apex kit you tried.
I tried the flat face forward set trigger. It felt better, but it's for a larger hand than mine. Too, once USPSA began with Carry Optics division it would have disallowed me to be in it. I wanted to be there rather than in Open.
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Old January 17th, 2016, 12:43 PM   #9
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BRR, I wish Apex's blurbs were more specific. If I remember correctly the forward set trigger stated that it was "most like" a 1911. I know what a 1911 is like, but they clearly think that it's a long trigger. I'm in tune to the break of the trigger; then there are short, med' and long triggers. Apex and I are both using English, but they aren't being explicit and they are the folks doing the selling. They need non-engineers to write the blurbs. They also need folks who are disassembling and reassembling for the first time to do the videos. They left out important info. Two months ago when I first went through this it about drove me up a wall with what was left out. One would do better on Youtube. (I did)

-------------------

Today I took apart my comp' gun, polished things up, did a bit of work on the sear and used the Apex springs instead of the OEM springs. It's definitely lighter. It's actually quite good, but maybe not as crisp as I would like*. But I think it's as good as it will get unless I do a bit more work on the sear. I'll probably leave it alone. The break didn't move forward at all and with the Apex parts installed previously with the S&W trigger in place of the forward trigger the break was definitely more "forward". At least by doing what I did today the break point didn't change.

Next I'll do the 9c, that could be the more difficult one. I'll try the Apex sear and if that moves the break forward it'll come out and I'll modify the stock sear. There is a subtle difference in length between the OEM and APEX parts and I think that's what moved the break on me previously.

* I would like to feel this trigger in a metal frame. It could be the polymer frame that I'm feeling and making the break feel not as crisp as I'd like. These are my first polymer guns. I think part of it is that I need to give it time.

Last edited by BrianK; January 17th, 2016 at 02:59 PM.
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Old January 18th, 2016, 10:35 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianK View Post
I tried the flat face forward set trigger. It felt better, but it's for a larger hand than mine. Too, once USPSA began with Carry Optics division it would have disallowed me to be in it. I wanted to be there rather than in Open.
Got it! Thanks for the clarification!
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Old January 25th, 2016, 08:36 AM   #11
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The apex action enhancement trigger gave me the feel I wanted. It's $40 bucks and easy to install
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Old January 27th, 2016, 09:44 AM   #12
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I have an Apex sear and reset assist mechanism in my M&P 40fs. Those parts are a piece of cake to install by removing one roll pin. The two parts together make a big difference. The trigger pull is about a lb lighter than stock and now has a great feel upon reset.
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Old March 11th, 2016, 01:23 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianK View Post
I'd like to get a better trigger on my ported M&P. The OEM trigger isn't terrible, but I'd like it to be better.

I'd also like to get the trigger on my 9c better. I don't have the tools to do the mod's. I've tried to contact Dan Burwell, but I assume he either doesn't work on them anymore or has too much going on as he hasn't gotten back to me.

Does anyone know of other competent folks who can perform this work?

TIA!
I do not know what your personal level of skill is when it comes to mechanical inclinations, but let us assume they are at least average which is all you need IMHO to do your own installation of Apex aftermarket trigger upgrades for any S&W M&P Pro.

Apex has excellent step by step installation videos that will walk you through the process. The only tools you will need are:
<>A small hammer preferably a gun smithing hammer with a non-damaging plastic faced hammed is best but any small hammer will do.
<>A 1/8" pin punch to remove and then re-install the two frame pins and one trigger pin
<>A roll of masking or what I used painters tape to cover the end of the brass or aluminum punch your going to use to remove the rear sight to aid in protecting your rear sight from damage.
<>Proper sized allen key to remove rear sight set screw
<>A 1/4"-5/16" brass or aluminum punch to remove your rear sight
<>Something to support your guns frame for pin removal I used three rolls of plastic electrical tape the same size, place the part of the frame that holds the frame pins over the hole in the tape roll so you can pound them out. I used the other two rolls of tape to support the frame while I pounded out the two pins.

Some experienced based advice. if you are going to do your own Apex install, watch the Apex Company video multiple times until you fully understand what you will be doing.

Secondly, exercise extreme care in maintaining control of the sear pin and plunger and the sear itself during re-install or other wise the spring and plunger could go flying out and across the room and believe me these two parts are EXTREMELY small, the plunger is about the size of the broke off tip of a pencil, a true PITA to find once it flies out and gets lost.

Lastly exercise extreme caution when attempting to remove your rear sights set screw. Last thing you want to do is screw your self by stripping out the allen portion of your sights set screw buy using to much force. Some come out easily as did mine requiring only minimal force, others have required heating to loosen the lock-tighted in screw. If that is the case with yours and you need to heat up your set screw, I suggest you use a soldering iron to do so by placing the tip on the set screw and monitor the rate of heating by touching the sight itself. once it feels hot to the touch that should be enough.

If you pre view the Apex install video you will get a good idea what it entails doing one and what tools you will need. It is VERY, VERY easy to do and well worth the investment.

Last edited by Darton Jager; March 11th, 2016 at 01:48 PM.
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