This is a discussion on Apex Gunsmith Fit Barrel? within the MP Gunsmithing forums, part of the Smith & Wesson MP Forum category; Anyone know what additonal fitting is required for the Apex gunsmith fit barrel over the semi drop-in?...
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|August 10th, 2016, 09:34 AM||#2|
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Weeki Wachee, FL
I'd guess fitting of the barrel lug, hood, and front of the barrel where it mates with the front of the slide.
|September 30th, 2016, 04:30 AM||#3|
Join Date: Sep 2016
Yes, a Bridgeport...... a milling machine.
Major material removal, I'm sending my M&P9 FS in to Randy for a
gunsmith fit barrel. They are slightly more accurate then the
semi drop in units.
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|October 2nd, 2016, 06:12 PM||#4|
Join Date: Jul 2016
How much extra does it average going this route?
What does semi drop in mean? That it needs some fitting?
Thank you for the post OP, I never thought yet to look into this for when I buy a barrel.
Even if my brother has a mill, should I send it to a gunsmith since he isnt one (pretty experienced with his mill & lathe tho)? Cause I plan to buy an apex barrel after a few purchases for other firearms. Not trying hijack the thread OP you just got me thinking ahead about a barrel and glad you did. Thanks again.
|November 14th, 2016, 09:53 PM||#5|
Join Date: Oct 2014
I have one I just got in today. Was very lucky as the 5.00" gunsmith seem to be sold out at all the major vendors. In case anyone is looking for one USATAC had them as of a few days ago. If they do not show out of stock according to there site info they are available as the inventory is live and updated every 30 seconds. Worked for me and had my barrel to my door in under a week. First time I have used them.
You have to take some material off the rear of the hood ( tab that extends off the chamber end where it seats into the notch on the slide) both for length and width. That is something you may have to do on even the semi drop ins. Difference is you need to take a bit more off. Where the drop in maybe only one or two light file passes ( stone might be a better choice of tool for those without experience. On the gunsmith its a bit more.
Most semi do not need rear lug pad material taken off but for sure the gunsmith version does. They did a very nice job on this by creating a fitting pad that is easy to see on the lug surface. That is what needs to be taken down a bit (fitted). Again it will just take more passes with the file. After each pass remark it with dykem/sharpie and test fit. This is the longest part of the whole process and IMO the most critical of the fittings for a tight slide to frame fit. The most variation in tolerances I see is in the slide to frame rail fit and this takes care of that. Its amazing how snug it all locks up and no rattle when you shake it.
The only other spot depending on slide tolerances is near the muzzle. There is a fitting pad there too you can see. This is usually not needed. But if the barrel will not slide in the muzzle opening some will need to be taken off the 9-10 and 2-3 oclock area using a rocking motion. IMO if you have painted your gun it would be better to remove it from the area inside the barrel port on the slide and see if it fits then rather than take metal off. Paint vs metal seems like easy choice to me.
Honestly the only real difference is how much you have to repeat taking some material off and test fitting process. Its the same process just more repetition and thus time.
If you worried and want to practice get a piece of aluminum or steel block and practice on it to get a feel.
You need some marking dykem or use a sharpie to mark the the fitting areas on the barrel to know where it needs to have material removed.
Watch the Apex semi drop-in fitting video as its the same procedure for the gunsmith and gives a very good visual of what where and how material for fitting needs to be done.
I would say I could do a video on it when I get going on this in the next few days but honestly the Apex video really does show you exactly what to do. The only difference is you would see me taking ALOT more time as I would actually be removing all that material by hand and test fitting with every few file strokes and then as I get close every file pass.
By using the dykem every time and only taking small amounts with each test fitting it prevents you from getting off angle (not keeping the surface flat. Its very easy to correct if you take an uneven amount if you keep the total amount you take off very small for each test fitting hence the recommendation.
After all you can always take more off but putting it back on if you go too far is well not so easy.
I am actually doing a full upgrade on this gun as I just picked up this 9mm pro core as I got a deal I could not pass up. Its going to be my new comp gun.
Barsto Apex gunsmith barrel, FSS, RAM, Extractor
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