M&P M2.0, Still Need a Punch & Hammer? - MP-Pistol Forum

M&P M2.0, Still Need a Punch & Hammer?

This is a discussion on M&P M2.0, Still Need a Punch & Hammer? within the MP Gunsmithing forums, part of the Smith & Wesson MP Forum category; I've been looking at the new 2.0 models and it appears they no longer have roll pins. Can someone please tell me if a hammer ...


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Old March 7th, 2017, 05:54 AM   #1
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M&P M2.0, Still Need a Punch & Hammer?

I've been looking at the new 2.0 models and it appears they no longer have roll pins. Can someone please tell me if a hammer and punch is still required to detail strip the pistol? Thanks for your help.
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Old March 7th, 2017, 07:55 AM   #2
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I just bought one the other day and after reading the manual and now granted this is my first M&P but it didn't say anything about needing any punches or a hammer to detail strip it. Seemed simple to field strip it.
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Old March 7th, 2017, 10:07 AM   #3
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I bought one a couple of weeks ago and love it. They don't have the standard ol' roll pins. I haven't tried to take mine down to the bare bones, but now you have my curiosity up. I appears that it will take at least a flat faced punch. Don't know if a hammer will be required or not. I may completely disassemble mine this weekend. I'll let you know. I know that is shoots great and has a great re-set. The trigger is still not as good as my apex FSS triggers that I have in most of my other M&P's. Love the new grips.
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Old March 7th, 2017, 10:07 AM   #4
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As I understand it roll pins were replaced by solid pins, to detail strip you would still need a punch and hammer to do it. Keeping in mind that S&W doesn't recommend that owners detail strip their pistols, field stripping is all that is needed.

Keep in mind this is a plastic frame, every time you punch those pins out they are going to remove a tiny bit of material. IMHO if you remove those pins too often, at some point they will become too loose to remain in place properly.
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Old March 7th, 2017, 11:28 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keeter1911 View Post
I may completely disassemble mine this weekend. I'll let you know.
Thank you, Keeter. That would be awesome!

Thanks to everyone else as well for your input.
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Old March 7th, 2017, 01:25 PM   #6
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^ You cannot remove the M2.0 blocks retained by the two solid pins without using a proper sized pin punch. After a few times of being removed / installed the trigger headed pin can be managed without any punch for installing, but something small has to be used to get the pin moving left to grab it with your finger.
This requirement for punches is the same as with M1.0, just different proper punches. Many used parallel pin punches rather than a proper sized roll pin punch with the M1.0....and it usually looked like it.

Unlike the trigger headed pin, the two frame pins pass thru the two blocks (locking block up front, sear housing block in the rear) with some tension - the sear block more than the locking block, as it has a longer channel (its width) for engagement with the surface of the pin. As before, the pin ends also engage holes in the underlying steel chassis that is covered by the Zytel polymer, the polymer material is not what secures the pins.


The M&P 1.0 chassis:



Caution: Pseudo-science and / or amateur photos may be embedded in this posting.

Last edited by mp9werks; March 7th, 2017 at 01:58 PM.
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Old March 7th, 2017, 06:07 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mp9werks View Post
^ You cannot remove the M2.0 blocks retained by the two solid pins without using a proper sized pin punch. After a few times of being removed / installed the trigger headed pin can be managed without any punch for installing, but something small has to be used to get the pin moving left to grab it with your finger.
This requirement for punches is the same as with M1.0, just different proper punches. Many used parallel pin punches rather than a proper sized roll pin punch with the M1.0....and it usually looked like it.

Unlike the trigger headed pin, the two frame pins pass thru the two blocks (locking block up front, sear housing block in the rear) with some tension - the sear block more than the locking block, as it has a longer channel (its width) for engagement with the surface of the pin. As before, the pin ends also engage holes in the underlying steel chassis that is covered by the Zytel polymer, the polymer material is not what secures the pins.


The M&P 1.0 chassis:



Caution: Pseudo-science and / or amateur photos may be embedded in this posting.
Werks to the rescue!
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Old March 8th, 2017, 06:54 AM   #8
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Awesome explanation, sir. Thank you for your time.
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Old March 26th, 2017, 02:25 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by jsimpson4 View Post
Thank you, Keeter. That would be awesome!

Thanks to everyone else as well for your input.
I finally took my 2.0 down to the he "bare bones". Complete dissasssembly is the same as describe by others above. The only thing that I have to add is that the pins are fitted very tightly and do not drive out as easily as the roll pin punches do. I doubt that I will take it apart again...
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Old March 27th, 2017, 05:22 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keeter1911 View Post
I finally took my 2.0 down to the he "bare bones". Complete dissasssembly is the same as describe by others above. The only thing that I have to add is that the pins are fitted very tightly and do not drive out as easily as the roll pin punches do. I doubt that I will take it apart again...
Really? Thanks for doing this and sharing.
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Old March 31st, 2017, 06:10 PM   #11
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Other than installing something like Apex tactical parts or polishing internals why would one detail strip a polymer gun? I know why I need to do so with my 1911 from time to time but, I see no need to detail strip a M&P or Glock for anything besides mod's...
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