This is a discussion on M&P M2.0, Still Need a Punch & Hammer? within the MP Gunsmithing forums, part of the Smith & Wesson MP Forum category; I've been looking at the new 2.0 models and it appears they no longer have roll pins. Can someone please tell me if a hammer ...
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|March 7th, 2017, 05:54 AM||#1|
Join Date: Mar 2013
M&P M2.0, Still Need a Punch & Hammer?
I've been looking at the new 2.0 models and it appears they no longer have roll pins. Can someone please tell me if a hammer and punch is still required to detail strip the pistol? Thanks for your help.
|March 7th, 2017, 07:55 AM||#2|
Join Date: Mar 2017
I just bought one the other day and after reading the manual and now granted this is my first M&P but it didn't say anything about needing any punches or a hammer to detail strip it. Seemed simple to field strip it.
|March 7th, 2017, 10:07 AM||#3|
Join Date: Jun 2012
I bought one a couple of weeks ago and love it. They don't have the standard ol' roll pins. I haven't tried to take mine down to the bare bones, but now you have my curiosity up. I appears that it will take at least a flat faced punch. Don't know if a hammer will be required or not. I may completely disassemble mine this weekend. I'll let you know. I know that is shoots great and has a great re-set. The trigger is still not as good as my apex FSS triggers that I have in most of my other M&P's. Love the new grips.
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|March 7th, 2017, 10:07 AM||#4|
Join Date: Sep 2006
As I understand it roll pins were replaced by solid pins, to detail strip you would still need a punch and hammer to do it. Keeping in mind that S&W doesn't recommend that owners detail strip their pistols, field stripping is all that is needed.
Keep in mind this is a plastic frame, every time you punch those pins out they are going to remove a tiny bit of material. IMHO if you remove those pins too often, at some point they will become too loose to remain in place properly.
|March 7th, 2017, 11:28 AM||#5|
Join Date: Mar 2013
|March 7th, 2017, 01:25 PM||#6|
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Behind the tree
^ You cannot remove the M2.0 blocks retained by the two solid pins without using a proper sized pin punch. After a few times of being removed / installed the trigger headed pin can be managed without any punch for installing, but something small has to be used to get the pin moving left to grab it with your finger.
This requirement for punches is the same as with M1.0, just different proper punches. Many used parallel pin punches rather than a proper sized roll pin punch with the M1.0....and it usually looked like it.
Unlike the trigger headed pin, the two frame pins pass thru the two blocks (locking block up front, sear housing block in the rear) with some tension - the sear block more than the locking block, as it has a longer channel (its width) for engagement with the surface of the pin. As before, the pin ends also engage holes in the underlying steel chassis that is covered by the Zytel polymer, the polymer material is not what secures the pins.
The M&P 1.0 chassis:
Caution: Pseudo-science and / or amateur photos may be embedded in this posting.
Last edited by mp9werks; March 7th, 2017 at 01:58 PM.
|March 7th, 2017, 06:07 PM||#7|
Join Date: Aug 2012
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