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Replacing mag catch spring

This is a discussion on Replacing mag catch spring within the MP Gunsmithing forums, part of the Smith & Wesson MP Forum category; Once the catch is in the hole, it's in. With increased tension, it will only wear in one spot instead of moving around with the ...


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Old February 15th, 2008, 11:40 AM   #16
 
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Once the catch is in the hole, it's in. With increased tension, it will only wear in one spot instead of moving around with the recoil and wearing the catch from the actual engagement area to the end of the catch. The old catches were soft and by the looks of mine (old catch) the mags peened the whole metal tab and the mags basically slid right off the catch. I was able to pull out a mag with the old catch. So, if the catch is stationary because the spring holds it in, its only gonna really wear in the spot the mag actually contacts it. It will wear no faster than a weak spring.
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Old February 15th, 2008, 11:56 AM   #17
 
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Will this work on the 45 since the hole at the bottom of the mag well is about 1/2 inch or so up inside on a little shelf? Anyone try it on the 45 yet?
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Old February 15th, 2008, 12:07 PM   #18
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optimus.. cool, my friend! BTW, I've got a bunch of Hog Tales around here too! 2004 Road King Custom... will be niceŽ weather around here for 3 days of riding this weekend! What are you riding?
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Old February 15th, 2008, 12:53 PM   #19
 
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>Dhart... Got me a 07 Softail last year. Rides a bit better than the old Streetbob.
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Old February 15th, 2008, 01:38 PM   #20
 
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I just finished this fix, i must say it works like a charm. Now it takes roughly twice as much pressure to push the release button.
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Old February 15th, 2008, 02:13 PM   #21
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nofoa.... great news! Congrats to you too. Since you've done this also, any additional suggestions/thoughts regarding the procedure?



This I have to do!
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Old February 15th, 2008, 02:27 PM   #22
 
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I made sure to clamp the frame to the table so my drill went straight in. I went in with a slow speed and it just followed the hole. It took about 5 minutes of using a punch to push the spring over enough to hammer it in the rest of the way.



Oh yes, take calipers with you to the hardware store. I made 3 trips trying to find some wire small enough/stiff enough to work.
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Old February 15th, 2008, 03:05 PM   #23
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nofoa
. . . It took about 5 minutes of using a punch to push the spring over enough to hammer it in the rest of the way. .


I'm not sure I understand this comment. Please provide more details. Why did you have to "push the spring over enough" while hammering it the rest of the way in? I haven't done this yet but figured the sping will just push/hammer straight in, in reverse of how the old spring was hammered out.



Thanks
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Old February 16th, 2008, 10:42 AM   #24
 
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The spring has to be under pressure to return the mag release to its original position. I put the spring back in the opposite way it was removed, from the butt end of the gun. You might be able to hammer it in from the top, but it would be going in at an angle.



Optimus might be able to describe it better.
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Old February 16th, 2008, 12:56 PM   #25
 
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nofoa> I hope you took the mag catch out of the pistol to replace the spring. That is the only way I can think of that you would have to push the spring? The old spring pulls straight out the bottom. The new spring inserts/punches straight in from the bottom. After it's installed, then put the mag catch in like you usually would.
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Old February 16th, 2008, 01:13 PM   #26
 
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lol i must have done it the hard way then.
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Old February 16th, 2008, 03:08 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nofoa
lol i must have done it the hard way then.
LOL, I guess. Did you have a problem with mag drops before and is it corrected now?



The instructions confused me too, the suggestion "setting butt down on an old chunk of leather" sounded like a great idea so I sat my butt down in my favorite leather chair but fell asleep because I couldn't read the instructions from there. After doing that twice I gave up, put my pistol back together and went to the range. Sucks getting old.
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Old February 17th, 2008, 07:33 PM   #28
 
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Completed this modification earlier today. Found the 1/16 (.0625) rod at an Ace hardware. Was about a buck for two 12 inch pieces, which was the only way they sold it. Stainless steel material. Followed the instructions above which were incredibly clear. Everything worked just as set forth. Old rod easily comes out with just taps with a punch and small hammer. Drill bit slides right in, following hole. As someone else posted, the difference between new and old spring/rod is .010 inches, so the bit really only removes a shaving out of the hole. New rod easily slides into place with the same punch and hammer. The entire process took about 10 to 15 minutes from when I took my gun out of the safe and when it was going back in.



I didn't radius my tab on the mag release button. I have a habit of pushing in my mag release on my glocks when inserting mags so as to reduce wear on the plastic glock magazine body/notch. I find myself doing this on my other guns too, so I'm not going to worry about my M&P metal mag bodies here. The new spring is stiffer but it is still overcome when inserting a magazine. There's so little of the tab that already engages the hole in the mag bodies that I figure the last thing I need to do is radius that mag catch tab at all.



Thanks again for this practical and easy modification to help prevent engaging the mag release button while carrying.
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Old February 17th, 2008, 08:18 PM   #29
 
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Your welcome, glad it worked for you. Rediculously easy isn't it!
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Old February 17th, 2008, 09:20 PM   #30
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onebohemian... great to hear the news. Congrats. Will be doing mine before too long as well. 8)
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