Light Primer Hits - MP-Pistol Forum

Light Primer Hits

This is a discussion on Light Primer Hits within the MP Pistol Tech Help forums, part of the Smith & Wesson MP Forum category; My Pro has had intermittent light primer hits. Last match I had 3. Primers are all seated properly into the pocket, I inspected each one ...


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Old July 7th, 2009, 10:48 AM   #1
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My Pro has had intermittent light primer hits. Last match I had 3. Primers are all seated properly into the pocket, I inspected each one after case gauging my match ammo.



Speed shooters has an Extra Power Striker Spring. I know this will increase trigger pull but it will be worth it if the light hits go away. Has anybody tried this yet?



Thanks,



Andy
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Old July 7th, 2009, 03:00 PM   #2
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArnisAndyz' post='215998' date='Jul 7 2009, 05:48 PM
My Pro has had intermittent light primer hits. Last match I had 3. Primers are all seated properly into the pocket, I inspected each one after case gauging my match ammo.


Check the primer seater on the reloader. With some reloaders (Lee for example, don't ask how I know) primers seat to a predetermined depth, not necessarily until they contact the bottom of the primer pocket. They will check out good and show no high primers, but upon impact from the firing pin, will move forward just a couple of thousandths, absorbing some on the firing pin impact, leaving you with a FTF. There is often slight variations in the primer pocket depth from case to case, especially if you use a pocket reamer on once fired military brass.
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Old July 7th, 2009, 03:03 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArnisAndyz' post='215998' date='Jul 7 2009, 01:48 PM
My Pro has had intermittent light primer hits. Last match I had 3. Primers are all seated properly into the pocket, I inspected each one after case gauging my match ammo.



Speed shooters has an Extra Power Striker Spring. I know this will increase trigger pull but it will be worth it if the light hits go away. Has anybody tried this yet?



Thanks,



Andy
Have you had any problems with factory ammo?



A.T.
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Old July 7th, 2009, 10:35 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArnisAndyz' post='215998' date='Jul 7 2009, 10:48 AM
I know this will increase trigger pull but it will be worth it if the light hits go away. Has anybody tried this yet?
You might want to try a replacement striker assembly (you can't get just the spring from S&W).



Maybe the spring you have in there now is just a little on the weak side, and maybe a new spring/striker assembly will solve the problem.



You can probably get the part free from smith and if it does fix the problem, it will most likely not have added to the trigger pull as much as an extra power striker spring would.



Please give us a follow-up report on whatever you decide to do.



God bless,

David
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Old July 8th, 2009, 03:57 AM   #5
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArnisAndyz' post='215998' date='Jul 7 2009, 01:48 PM
My Pro has had intermittent light primer hits. Last match I had 3. Primers are all seated properly into the pocket, I inspected each one after case gauging my match ammo.



Speed shooters has an Extra Power Striker Spring. I know this will increase trigger pull but it will be worth it if the light hits go away. Has anybody tried this yet?



Thanks,



Andy


The few times I have seen this happen, the cause was a dirty striker channel



Mike
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Old July 8th, 2009, 09:30 AM   #6
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atbarr's question is key to solving your problem.



The only time I have had primers not go off was when using brand new never fired Winchester brass. The primers appeared to be seated properly but would not go bang reliably. I tore the gun apart and did every thing I could think of, including heavy spring, to no avail. This was not an M&P. The cure was to rework the primer pockets so the bottom was flat rather than on an angle relative to the outer surface.



I will not load using new brass unless it's the only source. Once fired brass from the major ammo co's have been trimmed to proper length and primer pockets produced correctly or corrected prior to factory loading.



The Lee equipment I use is not limited to a single insertion depth and had no problem accomodating the new depth after correcting the primer pockets mentioned above. It had no problem producing good ammo in the other 5,000 or so pieces of brass I use either.



Good luck.
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Old July 8th, 2009, 09:55 AM   #7
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Thanks for the replies.



I'm loading on a Dillon SDB using WIN once fired brass. They all appear to be seated to proper depth. I'm NOT reaming the pockets.

I don't shoot too much factory ammo through this gun, but I do have a dedicated CCW gun that I run my carry load through with no problems.

The striker channel had been cleaned prior to the match, I run it dry with no lube. Should I try it with some lube?

Replacing the entire striker assembly might be a path I try. Maybe the spring or plastic sleeve is worn?



I also ordered a new recoil spring. I'm running a 13lb that works well with my reloads and I wonder if its gotten weaker not holding the gun in battery? Won't a heavier striker spring need a heavier recoil spring?
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Old July 9th, 2009, 09:10 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArnisAndyz' post='216143' date='Jul 8 2009, 12:55 PM
I also ordered a new recoil spring. I'm running a 13lb that works well with my reloads and I wonder if its gotten weaker not holding the gun in battery? Won't a heavier striker spring need a heavier recoil spring?
I think you found the answer. I hear more people with light hits with a light recoil spring, this is the reason I only recomend the factory spring. They are cheap enough and as I have said before if your ammo won't run the factory spring turn the dang load up!! this is why we reload so we can tune the ammo to the gun.
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Old July 9th, 2009, 12:41 PM   #9
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Thanks Dan,



I DO think I either have a worn spring and/or its not strong enough. Looking closely when I dryfire, I see a little movement in the slide, it moves very-very slightly to the back as the striker is being prepped. You can barely notice it, but it does move. Then the slide moves slightly forward when the striker falls. I think this could be enough movement to cushion the strike! I got my new parts today, I'll post an update when I test it out.



FWIW, this problem (intermittent soft hits) just started happening. I have about 5000+ rounds through the gun, It had been working fine with the 13lb spring and my reloads until this month. My reloads are a decent 132PF. I would suggest anyone running a 13lb spring to change it out more often. I think 13lbs is right at the limit of proper function, when it weakens slightly you may have problems, where a factory spring will probably still have enough energy even when worn. I'm probably going to move up to a 15lb. I guess I'll have to do some timing drills!



Andy
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Old July 9th, 2009, 08:06 PM   #10
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It would certainly help us help you when you are running a modified gun that is exhibeting problems if you would give us the full story up front.
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Old July 15th, 2009, 09:02 AM   #11
 
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Hi all,



Took my (completely) stock M&P 9 FS to the range last night. The gun now has 400 rounds through it total. My buddy put 20 rounds through it (very rapid fire) using Fiocchi ammunition and had two light-primer strikes. I verified the indentations on the primers of the ejected cartridges, they were centered and looked normal. I've heard Fiocchi has a reputation for having hard primers, but my M&P was the only gun of the night that did not handle it so I'm thinking light strikes. Aside from the 20 Fiocchi my friend used, the gun had 80 range reloads shot through it with no problems whatsoever.



My friend suggested that my striker channel might be dirty. Do you guys think this is the case? If so, how does one go about cleaning the channel? (I've never detail-stripped the gun and am not the most mechanically-proficient person on the planet). Is this something worth sending to Smith to handle or should I just chalk it up to the ammo batch and not worry about it?



FWIW the serial number letters are MPZ.



Thanks in advance!
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Old July 15th, 2009, 09:46 AM   #12
 
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The striker channel is easy to clean. Strip the slide from the frame. When you look at the underside of the slide, just in front of the striker, you'll see a piece of white plastic and a spring in the striker channel. Use the frame tool to push the plastic toward the muzzle and slide the striker cover up from the rear of the slide. Once the striker cover is removed, press down on the firing pin block to release the striker and slide it out. Then you can clean the striker channel out. I use a Q-tip's with a little CLP to get the gunk out of there until the Q-tips are clean, kind of like running patches down the bore until the bore is clean. Then I remove any CLP residue with a dry Q-tip. You don't need to lube the channel because the plastic sleeve is self-lubricating and a wet channel will pick up gunk fast. Reassemble in reverse.
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Old August 15th, 2009, 08:57 PM   #13
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tremiles' post='217067' date='Jul 15 2009, 09:46 AM
The striker channel is easy to clean. Strip the slide from the frame. When you look at the underside of the slide, just in front of the striker, you'll see a piece of white plastic and a spring in the striker channel. Use the frame tool to push the plastic toward the muzzle and slide the striker cover up from the rear of the slide. Once the striker cover is removed, press down on the firing pin block to release the striker and slide it out. Then you can clean the striker channel out. I use a Q-tip's with a little CLP to get the gunk out of there until the Q-tips are clean, kind of like running patches down the bore until the bore is clean. Then I remove any CLP residue with a dry Q-tip. You don't need to lube the channel because the plastic sleeve is self-lubricating and a wet channel will pick up gunk fast. Reassemble in reverse.




Thanks much! I finally got around to cleaning the striker channel and striker assembly. By 'clean' I mean used wet and and dry Q-tips (water only). I only have Hoppes #9 and don't have CLP, I was afraid the Hoppes solvent would eat away at the plastic sleeves. I was surprised at how much 'gunk' came out after only 400 rounds through it, there was more than I expected! I had more trouble trying to get the back plate on than I had getting it off, but I think I've got the whole process down.



I'm going to give it a workout at the range this week to see if the light primer strikes are still an issue. Once again thanks for the info!
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Old April 20th, 2016, 06:01 PM   #14
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How do you remove the plastic liner in the slide that the striker assy slides in?
Had same light strike problem went to Federal primers solved most of it
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Old January 16th, 2017, 06:20 PM   #15
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Recommended rounds for recoil spring

Quote:
Originally Posted by ArnisAndyz View Post
Thanks Dan,

I DO think I either have a worn spring and/or its not strong enough. Looking closely when I dryfire, I see a little movement in the slide, it moves very-very slightly to the back as the striker is being prepped. You can barely notice it, but it does move. Then the slide moves slightly forward when the striker falls. I think this could be enough movement to cushion the strike! I got my new parts today, I'll post an update when I test it out.


FWIW, this problem (intermittent soft hits) just started happening. I have about 5000+ rounds through the gun, It had been working fine with the 13lb spring and my reloads until this month. My reloads are a decent 132PF. I would suggest anyone running a 13lb spring to change it out more often. I think 13lbs is right at the limit of proper function, when it weakens slightly you may have problems, where a factory spring will probably still have enough energy even when worn. I'm probably going to move up to a 15lb. I guess I'll have to do some timing drills!

Andy
Recommended round count for recoil springs is 5,000 rds. Looks like you're there. Also, with that many rds, have you replaced the Striker Channel Liner. Hard to remove but cheap to replace. I got the Glock tool to insert but used a 5/16" x 4" carriage bolt carefully threaded in to pull old one out.
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