Extractor Pin Removal M&P

This is a discussion on Extractor Pin Removal M&P within the MP Pistol Tech Help forums, part of the Smith & Wesson MP Forum category; I would like to remove the extractor and clean. I tried punching the pin out but it would not budge. Broke a steel punch trying. ...


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Old December 2nd, 2009, 11:47 AM   #1
 
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I would like to remove the extractor and clean. I tried punching the pin out but it would not budge. Broke a steel punch trying.



Any hints? Pound it from the top or bottom of the slide? Hit it like a man using a new punch?



Are these red locktited in place?



Thanks.
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Old December 2nd, 2009, 02:09 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WaterWolf' post='232630' date='Dec 2 2009, 09:47 PM
1. Broke a steel punch trying.



2. Any hints?



3. Pound it from the top or bottom of the slide?



4. Hit it like a man using a new punch?



5. Are these red locktited in place?



Thanks.


1. It has been known to happen.



2. See attached.



3. See attached.



4. That apparently didn't work.....how about hit it with a golf club like your wife might upon learning you transgressed.



5. No.
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Old December 3rd, 2009, 06:21 AM   #3
 
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Thanks for the pics mp9werks. Good idea starting with a larger punch. Hardened steel may be a little hard to find at ACE though.



As far as the golf club, I am married with two kids (my name is Taxi). I wish I had time to transgess! Tiger apparently found time.



Maybe I will let the wife hammer on the pin; she will have a little extra power after she finds out I am buying a Dillon 550 loader along with all the goodies for Christmas!
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Old December 3rd, 2009, 06:42 AM   #4
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I pry my extractor open (gently) with a brass rod, and hose it out liberally with CLP.... about every 300-500 rounds.



Jeff
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Old December 3rd, 2009, 07:04 AM   #5
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M&P 45's use a roll pin rather than solid. I have debated using the same in our 9 and 40 if removal becomes necessaty. Does anyone know if the hole in the 9 and 40 is straight through or stepped down at the top?
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Old December 3rd, 2009, 08:24 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TOF' post='232705' date='Dec 3 2009, 05:04 PM
Does anyone know if the hole in the 9 and 40 is straight through or stepped down at the top?


The extractor retention pin aperture is uniform diameter along its length, the pin is just a little bit shorter than the length of the channel, so when the pin is flush on the underside of the slide, it appears to be countersunk when viewed from the top of the slide. These pins are apparently placed at the factory with a hydraulic arbor press using 1- 2 tons of pressure to insert the pin, which is about 0.0002" larger diameter than the nominal 1/16" pin channel size.
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Old December 3rd, 2009, 08:58 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WaterWolf' post='232701' date='Dec 3 2009, 03:21 PM
Hardened steel may be a little hard to find at ACE though.


The taper styled hardened punch in those photos are usually sold in sets of 3 .....1/32 - 1/16 - 3/32"........for about$7.00 - 9.00 at Home Depot / Lowes / Ace etc....they are nail setting punches with a cupped end......the 1/32" works well for this situation to start moving the 1/16" pin. The taper design will only allow you to get it moving a short distance, until the taper diameter meets the aperture diameter, so be careful not to use it too long and mar the pin hole surface.



As you have discovered moving small diameter solid pins that are factory inserted with hydraulics takes a stout punch to get it moving, once moving it's not too bad.



The problem using a 1/16" punch, even the short set of "starter" punches from Brownells, which have hardened replaceable shafts (short & long lengths), is that they are still too long to deliver the kind of force needed to get this extractor pin moving, and will usually break also (don't ask). So, then one needs to have a entire set of short shafted tapered punches that are hardened to use as starter punches. I have made a set of hardened punches for myself to deploy in these situations, mine have a uniform diameter for a short distance, to avoid the tapered shape problem noted above.
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Old December 3rd, 2009, 09:04 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WaterWolf' post='232701' date='Dec 3 2009, 03:21 PM
Maybe I will let the wife hammer on the pin; she will have a little extra power after she finds out I am buying a Dillon 550 loader along with all the goodies for Christmas!


One more great reason to store ammo in a separate place !
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Old December 3rd, 2009, 10:36 AM   #9
 
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Thanks for all of the info mp9. Maybe I am trying to play a little to much gunsmithing. I'll give it another shot with a nail set, but I imagine I'll just clean it the easy, but not as thorough, way.
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Old December 7th, 2009, 08:32 AM   #10
 
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Just take a standard 1/16 steel punch and cut off off all but 1/4' of the pin and then use that as the starter punch.



I have removed the extractor pins several times with out a problem
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Old December 28th, 2009, 10:39 AM   #11
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The M&P solid extractor pins do seem to be a bit harder to remove compared to the solid pins in the older S&W metal-framed pistols. One opinion I received from someone at S&W was to the effect that the nitrocarburizing process seemed to make it harder because of the resulting surface hardening of the slide. Maybe so.



The thing is that armorers are still taught not to remove the extractors for 'regular cleaning', but only for repair purpose.



The pins are removed top-to-bottom and installed from the bottom, like in the older S&W pistols.



We were taught to use a dedicated starter pin punch to break the pin loose, and then a standard 1/16" pin punch (with a straight shank) to complete removal. It's not uncommon for a S&W armorer to eventually develop a number of starter pin punches when a 1/16" Starrett pin punch breaks off at the bottom of the straight shank.



The roll pin used in the M&P 45 model is a departure for S&W when it comes to extractor pins. I was told it was developed to meet a military maintenance specification in anticipation of the suspended military pistol trials.



FWIW, at more than 3,000 rounds fired through my M&P 45 I have yet to remove the extractor pin/extractor, and have no immediate plans to do so. Not unless I somehow end up unintentionally submerging the pistol, experience the introduction of some contaminant to the extractor recess in the slide or have some other unexpected problem occur which would require removal. Not for regular cleaning.



The only time I've removed a solid extractor pin from an M&P pistol was during the armorer class, and it's generally much easier to do so on the demo/class guns because of how frequently the pins have been removed in the armorer classes.



I've removed quite a number of solid extractor pins from other S&W pistols over the years, though, to fit new extractors, and even with the standard stainless/carbon slides it takes some effort to break the pins loose at first.
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