M&P 9 Full size "Gritty Trigger" - Page 2 - MP-Pistol Forum

M&P 9 Full size "Gritty Trigger"

This is a discussion on M&P 9 Full size "Gritty Trigger" within the MP Pistol Tech Help forums, part of the Smith & Wesson MP Forum category; Uh oh, I contacted a local gunsmith and he suggested the Apex Trigger kit. The ultimate goal is to shoot paper at a local range.. ...


Go Back   MP-Pistol Forum > Smith & Wesson MP Forum > MP Pistol Tech Help

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old June 24th, 2016, 05:33 PM   #16
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Vienna
Posts: 3
Uh oh, I contacted a local gunsmith and he suggested the Apex Trigger kit. The ultimate goal is to shoot paper at a local range.. The DCAEK makes since to me
Thanks
Fixie2work1 is offline  
Old June 25th, 2016, 01:32 PM   #17
Senior Member
 
Bill in Tx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Texas
Posts: 4,457
Quote:
Originally Posted by SFEERO View Post
Bill, have you contacted S&W to verify?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I did a while back. Also, if you want to set your mind at ease call Apex and ask them. If you want to contact customer service at S&W, I suggest that you email them rather than call.

This has been covered in the forum before also, if you do a search you might come up with the thread. Hope this helps!
Bill in Tx is offline  
Old June 28th, 2016, 09:47 AM   #18
Junior Member
 
SFEERO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Auburn, Washington
Posts: 8
Just going off of the information provided to me during the M&P armorer course and through Apex Tactical videos. If that information has since changed, I apologize for out dated information. I would suggest anyone who decides to make modifications to their firearms contact the manufacturer to verify.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
SFEERO is offline  
 
Old March 18th, 2017, 05:32 PM   #19
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Southeast USA
Posts: 93
Quote:
Originally Posted by SouthernBoy View Post
The single item that will eliminate that gritty trigger is the Apex Tactical USB (Ultimate Safety Block). Install this and your trigger pre-travel will be instantly improved.
I agree that the standard striker block causes most of the grittiness in the trigger take up. The way to test for this is to drop the magazine then push the little yellow sear deactivation lever inside the pistol down. This deactivates the sear allowing one to pull the trigger while feeling just the striker block and nothing else.
Yankee45 is offline  
Old March 18th, 2017, 05:33 PM   #20
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Southeast USA
Posts: 93
Quote:
Originally Posted by SouthernBoy View Post
The single item that will eliminate that gritty trigger is the Apex Tactical USB (Ultimate Safety Block). Install this and your trigger pre-travel will be instantly improved.
I agree that the standard striker block causes most of the grittiness in the trigger pre-travel. The way to test for this is to drop the magazine then push the little yellow sear deactivation lever inside the pistol down. This deactivates the sear allowing one to pull the trigger while feeling just the striker block and nothing else.
Yankee45 is offline  
Old March 18th, 2017, 05:48 PM   #21
Senior Member
 
Rick M's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Weeki Wachee, FL
Posts: 1,901
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yankee45 View Post
I agree that the standard striker block causes most of the grittiness in the trigger pre-travel. The way to test for this is to drop the magazine then push the little yellow sear deactivation lever inside the pistol down. This deactivates the sear allowing one to pull the trigger while feeling just the striker block and nothing else.
+1.

Install an Apex striker block to lose the grittiness, and get to shootin'!
Rick M is offline  
Old March 18th, 2017, 05:52 PM   #22
Member
 
aaron1984's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 448
Apex stuff is awesome, my Dad has a couple of their kits in his M&P's... I would like to add them to a couple of mine but, I need to sink some money into improving the back yard shooting range this summer and I want to get some suppressors so I'm thinking I may break out the 1000 grit wet or dry sand paper and do a polishing job for now.
aaron1984 is offline  
Old March 18th, 2017, 06:06 PM   #23
Senior Member
 
PaPow's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: NY
Posts: 1,447
Quote:
Originally Posted by aaron1984 View Post
Apex stuff is awesome, my Dad has a couple of their kits in his M&P's... I would like to add them to a couple of mine but, I need to sink some money into improving the back yard shooting range this summer and I want to get some suppressors so I'm thinking I may break out the 1000 grit wet or dry sand paper and do a polishing job for now.
Hillbilly Trigger Job: (its the poor mans trigger job, but it works)
You can smooth up that blocker by sticking it in your hand drill, spin it medium speed, use a file to round off the step, then use a knife sharpening stone to get rid of the file marks. Then go over it while spinning in the drill chuck with some fine grit sandpaper...600 then 1000 grit works ok. While still in the drill, use some flitz polish with a micro fiber towel to bring out a nice shine to it, then your done. Make sure to do a slight polish to the blocker bore. You can clamp a Q-tip in your hand drill with some flitz polish. Or you can buy a cotton .22 cal mop and do the same thing. If you have a dremel tool, i would polish the trigger bar camel hump and the loop with flitz polish.

Last edited by PaPow; March 18th, 2017 at 06:13 PM.
PaPow is offline  
Old March 19th, 2017, 05:07 AM   #24
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Behind the tree
Posts: 1,146
The small striker blocking plunger ("firing pin block") dimensions and small raised edge makes it very difficult to chuck into a standard drill and get it to spin in a true & secure fashion. Fabricate a small spindle in the form of a roll pin that will securely hold the part, give you more room to work around the part and get it to spin true for polishing, regardless if using the drill or dremel style tool.

Chuck a 3/32" roll pin into the Dremel (or your standard drill chuck) and apply 100 grit sandpaper to the upper 3/8" of the shaft to reduce the diameter, to approximately 11/128"....lightly tap the plunger squarely onto the chucked roll pin. At low Dremel rpm apply 400 – 600+ grit sandpaper to begin to soften the corner of the plunger, then finish surface with 1,500 + grit / or polishing rouge. Do NOT reduce the vertical height of the plunger.








Caution: Pseudo-science and / or amateur photos / diagrams may be embedded in this post.

Last edited by mp9werks; March 19th, 2017 at 05:15 AM.
mp9werks is offline  
Old March 19th, 2017, 08:11 AM   #25
Senior Member
 
PaPow's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: NY
Posts: 1,447
Quote:
Originally Posted by mp9werks View Post
The small striker blocking plunger ("firing pin block") dimensions and small raised edge makes it very difficult to chuck into a standard drill and get it to spin in a true & secure fashion. Fabricate a small spindle in the form of a roll pin that will securely hold the part, give you more room to work around the part and get it to spin true for polishing, regardless if using the drill or dremel style tool.

Chuck a 3/32" roll pin into the Dremel (or your standard drill chuck) and apply 100 grit sandpaper to the upper 3/8" of the shaft to reduce the diameter, to approximately 11/128"....lightly tap the plunger squarely onto the chucked roll pin. At low Dremel rpm apply 400 — 600+ grit sandpaper to begin to soften the corner of the plunger, then finish surface with 1,500 + grit / or polishing rouge. Do NOT reduce the vertical height of the plunger.

Yup, that works too. I`ve never had a problem chucking them up in a drill chuck though, just have to be careful not to crush it, but i do like you idea. I`ll try anything once...lol

Add Edit:
Just to let you know, i use a smaller piece inside the chuck for a stop. It keeps the blocker plunger concentric while in the chuck.
I`m thinking your method has no way to keep it tight, it will pop off the pin when you apply alot of pressure, can go out of round.
I also see in the last picture, looks like it got way to much material polished off... if so, the plunger will be sloopy loose in the bore.

I wouldnt use a pin of that nature thats in your pics... it wont run very true in the drill. I would use a solid pin instead.
Sand the solid pin tip with a slight taper to it. That would work far better in my opinion.

Last edited by PaPow; March 19th, 2017 at 08:22 AM.
PaPow is offline  
Old March 19th, 2017, 01:08 PM   #26
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Behind the tree
Posts: 1,146
^^ To each his own, however the roll pin by its very nature imposes circumferential tension; it runs true and never had one come off that's why I recommended it.
A solid pin driven in to the part is going to be quite difficult to extract.
mp9werks is offline  
Old March 19th, 2017, 02:20 PM   #27
Senior Member
 
PaPow's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: NY
Posts: 1,447
Quote:
Originally Posted by mp9werks View Post
^^ To each his own, however the roll pin by its very nature imposes circumferential tension; it runs true and never had one come off that's why I recommended it.
A solid pin driven in to the part is going to be quite difficult to extract.
Absolutely mp9werks, whatever works, go with it. No rules apply. But i never had much luck getting a expandable pin to run true in a hand drill. So i gave up on that idea a long time ago, but if it works good enough for you, by all means, keep doing what your doing.

Solid pin dosent extract hard at all. Works just like a tapered tool spindle machine so to speak. I work with those types/kinds of machines everyday... and they`re spinning far faster than a hand drill, i`ve never seen many come off either under load. Most drill chucks are installed on a tapered shaft as well. You can remove the plunger off the solid shaft with a morse taper tool, or something homemade close to the same thing... a wedge type tool will take the plunger off the tapered solid pin with no effort at all. You wouldn't need a lot of force to hold the plunger on anyway.
PaPow is offline  
Old March 20th, 2017, 08:14 AM   #28
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Washington State - +-94mi east of the Cascade Curtain
Posts: 782
Quote:
Originally Posted by mp9werks View Post
The small striker blocking plunger ("firing pin block") dimensions and small raised edge makes it very difficult to chuck into a standard drill and get it to spin in a true & secure fashion. Fabricate a small spindle in the form of a roll pin that will securely hold the part, give you more room to work around the part and get it to spin true for polishing, regardless if using the drill or dremel style tool.

Chuck a 3/32" roll pin into the Dremel (or your standard drill chuck) and apply 100 grit sandpaper to the upper 3/8" of the shaft to reduce the diameter, to approximately 11/128"....lightly tap the plunger squarely onto the chucked roll pin. At low Dremel rpm apply 400 600+ grit sandpaper to begin to soften the corner of the plunger, then finish surface with 1,500 + grit / or polishing rouge. Do NOT reduce the vertical height of the plunger.








Caution: Pseudo-science and / or amateur photos / diagrams may be embedded in this post.
Great info as usual Werks! I followed your procedure from your M&P Appendix Manual and it worked great, got the striker block nicely polished.
NCW Ray is offline  
Old April 24th, 2017, 04:53 PM   #29
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Southeast USA
Posts: 93
Currently I can only speak for my 9mm Shield with recently installed PC sear and the later stock trigger which wasn't too bad to begin with. Installing a lighter $3.00 APEX Striker Block Plunger Spring alone took out 80-90% of the bumpiness in the pre-travel of my Shield's trigger and installing the APEX Striker Block Plunger (USB) took out the rest. I believe that same $3.00 APEX spring alone would at least provide significant benefit for the full size pistols as well. The USB could be added if desired.

Last edited by Yankee45; April 24th, 2017 at 05:08 PM.
Yankee45 is offline  
Old April 25th, 2017, 06:06 AM   #30
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Virginia
Posts: 44
If polishing the stock striker block doesn't get rid of the grittiness, take a look in the striker block channel. Mine had a slight burr in it caused when the striker channel was machined across the striker block hole. Once I polished out this roughness, the trigger smoothed out.
DougM is offline  
Reply

  MP-Pistol Forum > Smith & Wesson MP Forum > MP Pistol Tech Help

Thread Tools
Display Modes


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
WTB: M&P 9C 12 rd or full size magazines thor363 Classifieds 6 July 1st, 2016 06:49 AM



Powered by vBulletin 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
SEO by vBSEO 3.6.1
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2017 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright © 2006-2012 MP-Pistol. All rights reserved.
MP-Pistol is a M&P pistol enthusiast forum, but it is in no way affiliated with, nor does it represent Smith & Wesson Holding Corp. of Springfield, MA.