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Weapon Lube

This is a discussion on Weapon Lube within the MP Reference forums, part of the Smith & Wesson MP Forum category; I am using slip2000 as a cleaner and 10-8 performance lube. Awesome consistency on the lube....


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Old May 17th, 2011, 07:59 PM   #31
 
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I am using slip2000 as a cleaner and 10-8 performance lube. Awesome consistency on the lube.
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Old July 2nd, 2011, 02:00 PM   #32
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Currently I am using Eezox for protectant, and high temp lithium grease for lube on the slide rails, and rem oil on the barrel. Hoppes #9 for cleaning. You can use Eezox for everything but I choose to use it for what it is most widely known for which is rust preventitive. I recommend going to your local Autozone and picking up a tub of high temp lithium gear grease. You get 16 oz. for $2.99! Cheap and great for your slide rails, recommended by the guys at one of my local gun stores. smitty704
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Old August 24th, 2011, 01:56 PM   #33
 
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Balistol to clean and protect then Kellube M12 @ all friction points.
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Old August 27th, 2011, 04:36 PM   #34
 
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I use Gunzilla on all of my firearms, but I use Finish Line Dry Lube (for bicycles) as a lubricant. Excellent combination.
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Old August 27th, 2011, 06:33 PM   #35
 
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Ballistol all day err' day. It also works well on leather. I had to leave for work one morning and noticed that my shoes needed to be shined; I just sprayed some Ballistol on them, buffed them with a gun rag, and it was close enough for government work.



I got some Wilson Combat Universal Ultima-Lube as a door prize at a match so I've been using that too. It works pretty well.
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Old August 27th, 2011, 06:50 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smitty704 View Post
Currently I am using Eezox for protectant, and high temp lithium grease for lube on the slide rails, and rem oil on the barrel. Hoppes #9 for cleaning. You can use Eezox for everything but I choose to use it for what it is most widely known for which is rust preventitive. I recommend going to your local Autozone and picking up a tub of high temp lithium gear grease. You get 16 oz. for $2.99! Cheap and great for your slide rails, recommended by the guys at one of my local gun stores. smitty704


Smitty, as an engineer, we used high quality high temp litthum on tool block fixtures that would run a hundred thousand cycles before they had to be pulled apart and PM'd. The stuff works great, but the real secret is to put it on very thin, so as not to build up a lot of crap between surfaces that only had a few thousandths of an inch clearance. We used this mostly on super hard tool steel, and flat cams that cycled the fixtures. It's a really good suggestion, but I would just warn people to use it very sparingly, just a very thin film will do it, especially where you're going to have much looser tolerances, and more crap (powder, dust, etc. can build up and turn things into a mess.



Just thought I'd throw that out there.



I personally don't use grease in my 1911's and M&P's, I just use a very thin coat of Lucas Gun oil, but then again, I clean mine completely after every outing, whether they really need it or not. Just habit.







J.
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Old September 11th, 2011, 09:54 PM   #37
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I personally use and recommended EEZOX. Works great and creates a barrier from the GA humidity and smells awesome



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Old September 16th, 2011, 05:59 PM   #38
 
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I run SLiP on my pistols and ARs. It has done an outstanding job keeping things running smooth and makes cleaning pretty simple. One of my ARs went 4,000 round before a cleaning with nothing but SLiP on them. Works like a charm.
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Old October 2nd, 2011, 05:16 PM   #39
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I'm new to this site, but after a lot of research on a few of the other sites I keep an eye on, and my own personal use I go back and forth between Hoppe's Elite, Hoppe's M-Pro 7, and SLiP2000 EWL. I'm still looking for a quality dry molybdenum disulfide spray as I read on Holland's Gunsmithing site that this stuff is great in cold weather. Living in Alaska that concerns me. I think Hoppe's make a Moly spray, but have not seen it up here and one can't ship aersol to AK.



Based on an article Holland wrote I also use an aerosol can of carburetor/choke cleaner to remove junk out of the trigger and firing pin assemblies on my rifles ~once a year, but have yet to do it on my M&P. Need to research more to see if it would damage the "plastic." ???
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Old October 2nd, 2011, 06:36 PM   #40
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I thought that I was always behind on things! Just this evening worked over my Ruger LCP with CRC contact cleaner in preparation for coating it with Eezox as both a dry lubricant and a rust preservative. Have heard great things about Eezox especially for carry weapons since it is so dry. Plan to fire it at a couple of range sessions and use only Eezox to clean it up. Will see how it really works before trying it on some more heavy artillery.

Bob
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Old October 21st, 2011, 11:05 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GermainMP9L View Post
I tried it, still don't like it as a lube, so my search continues for a good lube, not lube/cleaner


I'm not a chemist but I dont understand the concept of a cleaner/lubricant. As I understand it, a cleaner is supposed to de-grease a gun, removing old grease and all the gunk/dirt/fouling/powder embedded in it. How can the same liquid also be used as a lubricant?



I use Hoppe's #9 solvent, then completely remove all of it. Then I use a lubricant, typically break free or remoil. What am I missing? How does a cleaner/lubricant work?



230grain
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Old October 21st, 2011, 06:59 PM   #42
 
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Breaking up solids to ease removal is different from stripping all substances. In order to strip everything clean like you're thinking it would require the cleaner to evaporate and be removed itself. The idea behind a CLP is the product breaks up foreign materials but leave a thin film of itself behind(like WD40 is used for everything under the sun around where I live LOL). That film is what protects and is SUPPOSED to be slick so it lubricates to ease metal to metal contact. The problem is that in order to do it's job properly the viscosity of these products is not near what a dedicated lube can be.



I use a combo of gunzilla and slip 2000. Best combination I've found that is effective as well as non toxic.



I used to use #9 with a lube before I found these. Hard to beat good ole #9. Still have it at all times. Just like the idea of a non toxic option when I have kids around.
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Old October 22nd, 2011, 08:02 AM   #43
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Friends have been telling me that Frog Lube is the way to go, haven't tried it yet. Will do a M9 tonight as my test gun.
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Old October 22nd, 2011, 08:54 AM   #44
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SOWT, I've heard a little about Frog Lube on another forum, look forward to your results. As I recall, you have to apply and warm it up to cure. Is that correct?



Dave
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Old November 9th, 2011, 04:29 PM   #45
 
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Use the same stuff on all my guns.



Breakfree CLP to clean

Mobil-1 50w Full Synthetic to lube (Doesn't evaporate like most "gun oils", ie Rem-Oil)
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