This is a discussion on Lead Bullets in a M&P? within the MP Reference forums, part of the Smith & Wesson MP Forum category; HI, I was wondering if you can use lead bullets in the M&P? I have looked through the manual online and it doesn't talk about ...
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|April 29th, 2012, 05:29 PM||#1|
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Philippines (Alaska,USA)
I was wondering if you can use lead bullets in the M&P? I have looked through the manual online and it doesn't talk about it. Just use commercial ammo in it...
|April 30th, 2012, 02:29 AM||#3|
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: St Petersburg, FL
Works fine. Only Glock barrels (and maybe Kahr) advise against.
Use a good de-leading solvent when you clean, or just follow each session of lead with a few jacketed bullets!
|April 30th, 2012, 09:43 AM||#6|
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Mesa Arizona
When you have washed grease off your hands with leaded gas as much as I did in years past you don't worry much about lead poisening. I have also learned how to easily clean lead from barrels. I save around $120 per thousand by using lead and am a tight wad. That $120 builds another thousand. Also 99% of my shooting is in open air.
|April 30th, 2012, 10:04 AM||#7|
Join Date: Oct 2007
I pay about that just for the bullets, another $20 for 1000 primers, but still prefer to avoid ingesting any lead at all. I hate the smell of gasoline, and while not often confused with a tightwad, usually get awesome deals.
|April 30th, 2012, 06:02 PM||#8|
Join Date: Dec 2011
M&P's got a standard rifled barrel not the polygonal rifling that most of your glocks,HK,KAHRS will have. to my knowledge leads A-OK
|May 2nd, 2012, 03:12 PM||#9|
Join Date: Feb 2012
My 45 does just fine with lead. Very little deposit of lead in the barrel. Rarely even have to use a brush. If you reload, for almost the same price you can reload with plated bullets.
|May 2nd, 2012, 08:28 PM||#10|
Join Date: Dec 2007
|October 24th, 2012, 05:21 AM||#11|
Join Date: Aug 2012
I know this is an older thread but any reloaders out there worried about lead build up might give Precision Bullets a try. I started using em back when I was into CAS about 12 years ago. Great bullet, fair prices and I've never had leading issues.
|October 24th, 2012, 01:58 PM||#13|
Join Date: Sep 2007
lead is the least expensive followed by molys,plated and FMJ. I personally prefer molys these days. I find them to be just as accurate as FMJ without the messy lube associated with pure lead bullets. Run 100% in all my guns.
|October 25th, 2012, 11:27 AM||#14|
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Colo Spgs CO
Lube IS an issue to me, and the only lead bullets I've ever purchased turned out to be a massive PITA due to lube migration onto everything freeking imaginable. I pretty much solved this problem by running into a lube that stays put (Jake's Purple Ceresin), but after a few thousand rounds, still need to clean out the seating die. But, that takes seconds--the cold lube comes out as a chunk or two using a probe (I use tweezers).
Now, the only reason for me to shoot lead bullets is the case where I cast them myself. In that case I believe they're about $0.03 each, cutting the price of handloads in half or more over other bullet choices. Buying them at $0.10 each or more doesn't make much sense to me, when plated are the same price and much more fun to handle.
If I could find cast lead bullets with decent, hard lube for $0.06 each, I'd likely never cast another bullet unless I couldn't find the bullet I wanted,
|October 25th, 2012, 05:18 PM||#15|
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Myrtle Beach SC
|October 25th, 2012, 07:35 PM||#16|
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Colo Spgs CO
I too shoot lead almost exclusively in the MP40Pro. Some super fun ultra light shooters using the 180 gr truncated cone (Lee) bullet include:
...and I recently had Accurate Molds build me a 155 gr mold that produces these beauties:
I got an avg of 1,270 fps from these with 8.4 gr SR 4756, but I'm fixin' to do some of these in lighter loads with the traditional powders such as Solo 1000, Clays and maybe I'll even try No. 2 again,
This is raw data off the range using the 180 gr bullet a couple of years ago:
...and these are the 180s themselves, ready for presentation:
Everything is cast using wheel weight lead when I can specify, although in many cases I know I've used reclaimed range lead, as well as 'miscellaneous'. My supply is eBay, where I set my threshold at about $1.25/lb delivered. It's getting up the wherewithal to sit and cast for 2-3 hrs at a time that I find increasingly difficult, and buying at 3-4 times the price more attractive.
This weekend is the big gun show and the plan is to get several pounds of powder in some variety, in an attempt to hit the sweet spot with both the 155 gr cast, and a boatload of Rainier hollow points that just came in (165 gr I think). That's a lot of loading and a lot of range time, but I'll get to it and put the data up here if I remember. So many knobs to turn, so little time.
Last edited by Bongo Boy; October 25th, 2012 at 07:46 PM.
|October 27th, 2012, 04:44 AM||#18|
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: HSV, AL
All of the M&P's I have come across shoot lead just fine (2 FS M&P 9, 9C, and a FS 40). I can shoot after a mag or two the barrel looks about the same through to over 300rd. I am kinda anal about cleaning, so I don't let it go longer than a few hundred rounds.
My 9mm IDPA fodder is running about $.07ea using commercial cast bullets and recycled range pickup brass. I can't even come close in jacketed or plated (bullets alone run $.09-.12ea).
|February 1st, 2013, 09:45 AM||#19|
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Terrace, BC
I cast for all my pistols and revolvers. I place my lubed bullets in the steyerfoam containers from old Win 9mm boxs. I prefer soft lube and this removes the "messy" from using lead boolits. I find the lead boolits to be more accurate than the plated/fmj in all my guns.
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