fullsize 9 failure return to battery after shot - MP-Pistol Forum

fullsize 9 failure return to battery after shot

This is a discussion on fullsize 9 failure return to battery after shot within the MP Reference forums, part of the Smith & Wesson MP Forum category; Fullsize 9mm w/ FSS Trigger kit & FRE / exactly 250rds fired usuing old magazines / lubed with fireclean. On occasion (5%), the slide will ...


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Old November 17th, 2013, 08:36 AM   #1
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fullsize 9 failure return to battery after shot

Fullsize 9mm w/ FSS Trigger kit & FRE / exactly 250rds fired usuing old magazines / lubed with fireclean. On occasion (5%), the slide will not return to battery after firing a shot. This is Not acceptable….any thoughts?
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Old November 17th, 2013, 08:43 AM   #2
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Did it do this before the upgrades?
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Old November 17th, 2013, 09:40 AM   #3
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Did it do this before the upgrades?
Thanks for reply, Yes. I purchased FRE hoping to remedy this issue. I don't want to send to s&w for fix b/c Ive heard that no matter what you tell them it won't get fix the 1st time. It usually takes 2-3 trips before they actually fix it.
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Old November 17th, 2013, 09:51 AM   #4
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What ammo? Does it fit into a case gauge?
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Old November 17th, 2013, 09:55 AM   #5
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The factory 9mm/40S&W spring just barely manages to return the slide to full forward position when there is increased friction, such as when the gun is new. If your gun is more tight fitting than others, then this problem will happen.

Usually the problem goes away about after 200 rounds, but if it does not, I say send it in. They may not completely fix the problem the first time, but it can improve the situation enough to where you can shoot extra rounds some more until the problem goes away.

Besides, if the probmel is with too rough or overly tense extractor, the factory will fix it faster. That's something too costly to just rely on shooting hundreds after hundreds of rounds for "break-in."

It's the factory's fault for even making any "break-in" to become necessary. If sending it in multiple times is what it takes, sometimes that's just what you'll need to do.

If you are so against sending it back for warranty repair, try changing the recoil spring, manually cycling a dummy round for 500 times, to see if that makes anything better.

The factory WILL remove your aftermarket kit and return it to you in a factory spec condition, although you do get the parts back.
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Old November 17th, 2013, 09:58 AM   #6
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I had a similar problem (almost, but not completely, in battery). It turned out that I was riding the slide with the thumb of my support hand. That small amount of friction was enough to cause the slide to fail to fully go into battery, after a small percentage of shots.
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Old November 17th, 2013, 10:01 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by 40fan View Post
What ammo? Does it fit into a case gauge?
Thanks for reply.


All Factory ammo:
S&B 115gr
Freedom Munitions 115gr
Remington UMC 115gr

haven't tried case gauge.
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Old November 18th, 2013, 06:00 AM   #8
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I think the extractor spring is way too stiff because look at the case mouth
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Old November 18th, 2013, 06:53 AM   #9
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I think the extractor spring is way too stiff because look at the case mouth
Nothing wrong with that extractor, that's exactly what an aluminum snap cap should look like.

Lots of misinformation in this thread, and damaging "work" being done on properly functioning firearms based on poor information and wildly misinformed "testing".

As was mentioned before: to test the recoil assembly, point the empty M&P straight up and ride the slide into battery. If it goes into battery with a completely empty chamber (no snap caps), then the recoil assembly is functioning properly. If the slide goes into battery from slidelock, after stripping a round from the magazine, then the extractor is fine. If you ride the slide forward, or drag your thumb against the slide, then your testing is invalid.

To grind windings off the extractor spring until you can slowly ride the slide forward, stripping a cartridge, chambering, and locking the barrel into battery, is literally destroying your weapon. That should all be done by dropping the slide from fully retracted slingshot or at least slidelock position.

Last edited by KRWeiss; November 18th, 2013 at 08:08 AM.
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Old November 18th, 2013, 09:04 AM   #10
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Nothing wrong with that extractor, that's exactly what an aluminum snap cap should look like.

Lots of misinformation in this thread, and damaging "work" being done on properly functioning firearms based on poor information and wildly misinformed "testing".

As was mentioned before: to test the recoil assembly, point the empty M&P straight up and ride the slide into battery. If it goes into battery with a completely empty chamber (no snap caps), then the recoil assembly is functioning properly. If the slide goes into battery from slidelock, after stripping a round from the magazine, then the extractor is fine. If you ride the slide forward, or drag your thumb against the slide, then your testing is invalid.

To grind windings off the extractor spring until you can slowly ride the slide forward, stripping a cartridge, chambering, and locking the barrel into battery, is literally destroying your weapon. That should all be done by dropping the slide from fully retracted slingshot or at least slidelock position.
Thanks for reply. Here is a YouTube of someone else's but exactly same issue. I get this issue from shooting.
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=qTJasIq4xc4
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Old November 18th, 2013, 01:20 PM   #11
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Then I don't understand your issue. The guy in the video told you his problem "first issue I've had, when I've not done any lubrication or anything, it's just straight out of the box." I would hope that everyone knows better than to do that.
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Old November 28th, 2013, 01:48 PM   #12
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Then I don't understand your issue. The guy in the video told you his problem "first issue I've had, when I've not done any lubrication or anything, it's just straight out of the box." I would hope that everyone knows better than to do that.
Its all fixed now. Trimming the extractor spring solved it.....on to next issue, light strikes
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Old November 28th, 2013, 03:25 PM   #13
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Its all fixed now. Trimming the extractor spring solved it.....on to next issue, light strikes
I just dealt with this with the 9mm and FSS kit. If you open the loop on the trigger bar up to much it can engage the sear before the striker block is full engaged causing light strikes. Make sure the loop is closed without re shaping it as much as possible so it still activates the trigger but also engages the striker block. You want the sear to activate with as little over travel as possible on the trigger. Hope that helps.


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Old November 28th, 2013, 06:00 PM   #14
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My wife had a problem with her fs 9mm M&P not going back to bettery when it was new, shes a chronic limp wrister, she can stop a Glock 26 Every Round.... Once broke in the M&P is fine, New it was iffy because of her, not the gun....
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