Just purchased my Sheild and not happy. - Page 2 - MP-Pistol Forum

Just purchased my Sheild and not happy.

This is a discussion on Just purchased my Sheild and not happy. within the MP SHIELD Pistols forums, part of the Smith & Wesson MP Forum category; As many have stated, I also found the Shield 9mm to be very tough to rack. Experienced when I first tested it before buying. However ...


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Old April 22nd, 2017, 06:03 PM   #16
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As many have stated, I also found the Shield 9mm to be very tough to rack. Experienced when I first tested it before buying. However after reading many reviews on the Shield, I did not let that deter my decision of owning this fine machine. I just took it with a grain of salt being that it is a compact pistol, thus the spring needing to be stronger. After only a 150 rds down range I felt a major difference in racking the slide as well as the slide lock loosening as well. Initially I had a complaint about the slide lock not releasing without major force. In fact at first I couldn't even get it to release at all, then read that the Shield in fact has a slide lock and not a slide release. Now after 500 rds down range, my Shield racks pretty damn fine now and I always use slingshot method to rechamber. As others have stated, just shoot the hell out of it. It will get easier.
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Old April 22nd, 2017, 07:46 PM   #17
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Tricker, Same experience here. I am long time shooter, I was very familiar with many auto pistols field stripping. The Shield was a real challenge. It corrected itself after 400 rounds and lots of handling/dry firing. The key factor was that recoil assembly smoothed out, making the pistol work so much better. This pistol in 9mm is a keeper and one of the most useful firearms to come along quite some time.
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Old April 22nd, 2017, 07:51 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PaPow View Post
I dont think many people really think about the way guns work when shopping... the excitement in gun stores overcome the thought process. Then when they buy it, get home with it, they start noticing things alot differently. Especially when its a type of gun you`ve never handled or owned before. Happens all the time... i`ve bought a couple here an there over the years that i wished i hadn`t bought, but it is what it is. The OP is just lookin for help & answers, and thats why we`re here. If he shoots the hell out of it, with growing pains going away, i`m sure he`ll begin to be happy with his purchase. I`ve bought a few shields since they came out, they surely aren`t for the faint at heart when new... they are among the stiffest guns to operate when new, but they do break in eventually. Clean, lube, shoot, repeat.
Yup, I would agree with this 100%.
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Old April 23rd, 2017, 09:03 AM   #19
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Good info in this thread. Will help aid future Shield owners. Thanks to everyone that contributed.
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Old April 23rd, 2017, 12:17 PM   #20
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Took home my new 9mm Shield last night and tried to rack it. I had a torn rotator cuff on my right shoulder and I could not rack it. Read a few forums last night and discussions ab out this common problem, and this morning by using an empty magazine and switching hands (push with the left and pull with the right) I was able to rack it. Just ran 100 rounds through it, and am leaving the slide locked open rest of today. Hopefully will get easier.
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Old April 23rd, 2017, 05:24 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Burnet1187 View Post
Took home my new 9mm Shield last night and tried to rack it. I had a torn rotator cuff on my right shoulder and I could not rack it. Read a few forums last night and discussions ab out this common problem, and this morning by using an empty magazine and switching hands (push with the left and pull with the right) I was able to rack it. Just ran 100 rounds through it, and am leaving the slide locked open rest of today. Hopefully will get easier.
Spray some dry lube on that recoil spring, it will help tremendously.
I use the LiquidWrench RV dry lube, it works VERY well. I use it on ALL my semi-auto`s. I even clean my mags and give a squirt of LW dri-lube, my mags load so much easier.

I also use the same LW RV dry lube for lubing case`s for reloading... same ingredients as that $15 dollar can of HORNADY dri-lube. The LW dri-lube only costs $4 a can at wal-mart.

Some advice when using dri-lube`s, clean it off often, or it will start to build up and get sticky. Clean an re-lube with dri-lube, good to go.
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Old April 23rd, 2017, 06:02 PM   #22
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PaPow , what did you mean in your last sentence about dri lube getting sticky, or dd I read it wrong ? Wouldn't it get sticky in the mag or on the recoil spring ? I have been using it.
I will repeat in case anyone missed it, get a Handi Racker of some type for a new Shield. They are about the hardest to rack & lock back of any gun I have had. My first Shield I kept a month when they first came out. Now my second PC Shield has loosened up & works great. I really have made it my favorite gun. It is light on recoil because of the porting.
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Old April 23rd, 2017, 09:37 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by gene1 View Post
PaPow , what did you mean in your last sentence about dri lube getting sticky, or dd I read it wrong ? Wouldn't it get sticky in the mag or on the recoil spring ? I have been using it.
I will repeat in case anyone missed it, get a Handi Racker of some type for a new Shield. They are about the hardest to rack & lock back of any gun I have had. My first Shield I kept a month when they first came out. Now my second PC Shield has loosened up & works great. I really have made it my favorite gun. It is light on recoil because of the porting.
Sorry Gene, i should have explained that better... i apologize.
Think of the dri-lube you spray in your gun & mags as though it were floor wax building up on your floors... eventually, you would want to strip the floor to remove old wax build up. Dri-lube is really no different... if you continually keep spraying your gun parts with dri-lube, without cleaning the old lube out, it will eventually build up... kind of a cakey like substance. It needs to be cleaned out and re-sprayed again with fresh dri-lube. Powder residue gets everywhere inside the gun and the mags, and it will stick to the dri-lubes as well, which in turn, just adds to the problem. Clean and lubed guns are happy guns... happy gun, happy shooter.
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Old April 25th, 2017, 02:41 PM   #24
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I put GT-5000 grip tap on the full length of my Shield slide to better lock the slide back. I use the overhand grip with my left hand on the slide and push the grip with my right hand. It makes it so much easier to lock the slide back.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Slide tape 1.JPG (1,022.0 KB, 28 views)
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Old April 26th, 2017, 10:53 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by trikerdon View Post
I know this has been covered before on this forum but it was some time ago.
Has to do with my Shield 9mm that I just purchased a few days ago. Had I known then what I know now I wouldn't have purchased it.
Has to do with racking the slide back and using the slide lock. I have one hell of a time doing either one.
It seems like the slide goes to the rear about half way then seems to hit a spot that it doesn't want to go any further back with out a lot of muscle. I also not sure how it should sound like when you rack it but mine doesn't sound like they do on the videos I have looked at.
Having read others here on the forum who have had the same problem(s) I do, I think it has a lot to do with the recoil spring. When I look at mine the flat piece that fits against the barrel link seems to have a small bend on the side and it has rough edges to it.
Well, before I give up on it and trade it off I decided to purchase the Stainless recoil rod and spring from Stainless Steel Guide Rods inc. and also the Handi Racker 2 which I will use to rack the slide a hundred times or more as I can't get to a range that is near me to shoot 200 round or so as yet.
I will have to see what happens. :hope
I have to echo what other posters are saying, just get out there and shoot it. 1. you will be on target, and 2. the gun will have a chance to breathe. Another tip, the slide lock is just that, a lock, it is not meant to release the slide. The method mentioned in the manual is called slingshotting, much easier than trying to get enough thumb pressure to do something with a small control that it is not meant to do.
I am nearly 70 and have arthritis, I have 1500 rounds through mine and am a dead shot out to 15 yards with it. It is the best carry gun I have ever used. IMHO
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Old April 26th, 2017, 06:57 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raisin View Post
I put GT-5000 grip tap on the full length of my Shield slide to better lock the slide back. I use the overhand grip with my left hand on the slide and push the grip with my right hand. It makes it so much easier to lock the slide back.
Wow, I was going to do the rear half of the slide but it was hard to make an outline so I ended up with 2 pieces over the serrations. That already won it over for my gf that she took over it and replaced it with the PC9 for me.

The standard now has about 500 rounds, the PC9 has 200 (after 100 today). They are both about the same to rack for me (and the PC was really stiff fresh out of the box)-- barrel was dry and slide jammed back at first (not during firing). The spring needed lubrication, it was crunchy for both pistols when new. Now it has loosened up.


Last edited by greeenteeee; April 26th, 2017 at 07:00 PM.
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Old April 27th, 2017, 03:12 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raisin View Post
I put GT-5000 grip tap on the full length of my Shield slide to better lock the slide back. I use the overhand grip with my left hand on the slide and push the grip with my right hand. It makes it so much easier to lock the slide back.


Seems to me that a good retention holster would start that stuff to peeling off after enough repetitions.
I agree the "push" technique will solve the issue of racking for many with no so much grip/hand strength.


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