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New Shield 45 Today - Needs Work, but VERY doable...!

This is a discussion on New Shield 45 Today - Needs Work, but VERY doable...! within the MP SHIELD Pistols forums, part of the Smith & Wesson MP Forum category; Originally Posted by texagun PaPow, Sounds like you got a "late Friday afternoon" gun. Mine was perfect right out of the box. I'm pretty anal ...


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Old May 8th, 2017, 06:43 AM   #16
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New Shield 45 Today - Needs Work, but VERY doable...!

Quote:
Originally Posted by texagun View Post
PaPow,
Sounds like you got a "late Friday afternoon" gun. Mine was perfect right out of the box. I'm pretty anal about these things but I couldn't find anything that needed "fixin" on this gun, except for the overly-aggressive sharp finish on the grips. I took some 400 grit wet-or-dry and that problem was fixed in less than 5 minutes. I just took the "points" off the texture where it was irritating my hand and you can't tell visually if it was ever touched. Now it feels perfect and still retains a grip that stays in your hand where you put it. The trigger on my gun was excellent right out of the box, and better than any Shield trigger I have ever tried. Overall, this is probably one of the best values in a light, compact, concealable carry gun in .45 ACP, currently available at a bargain price.
Pretty much what I thought as well.
I got mine as soon as released and I could find one locally.
So Id say its an early production unit Id gave to look mfg date on box but purchased it around June of 16.

Happy with the trigger which is an improvement over the one in my 40 shield for sure.

Grip texture to me at least is dam near perfect I had to add talon grit tape to my 40 as it (and the 9) do not have adequate as produced. The recoil is to me again less on the 45 then my 40.

All my mags (only have 7 rd sold the 6rd and bought 3 spare) work fine out o the box. The factory spare mags I bought did not have black marks on follower only ones in box with gun did. The gun also functioned flawlessly after a simple field strip and wipe down prior to first round fired. No lube on recoil or mag springs and an uplula makes loading a breeze.

Gun racked fine out of box even before field strip and has never been difficult nor was my 40.

Over 1000 rds down range with the little sucker and I have 100% confidence in the firearm and its reliability and operation.
Opinions everyone has one.



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Last edited by Texas45; May 8th, 2017 at 06:47 AM.
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Old May 8th, 2017, 10:07 AM   #17
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Mine, and those of everyone I know that has a Shield 45, have functioned flawlessly.

They all think that the trigger is better than any of their other M&P's "as delivered," as well.
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Old May 8th, 2017, 03:21 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PaPow View Post

......for apex to say they aren`t needed in the shield 45, all i can say is, wow, i soooo totally disagree. Once you replace that OEM flat top blocker to a polished domed one, HUGE difference... no hitching, grating, no tit in the middle. After the dome style installed, pulling the trigger feels like its rolling on bearings... super smooth thru the whole pull. You only feel trigger spring and sear resistance, nothing more.

At this time, i am making my own blockers. I am a machinist, they`re very easy for me to make. And i make mine out of high grade medical stainless steel. Workin on some blockers right now... i already pulled mine from the slide.

The only parts i normally by from apex is their sears, triggers, gunsmith barrels for my own guns, and thats about it... stuff that i cant make, or dont want to make. The blockers are easy... spit them out on a cnc lathe in 2 minutes. I already have a program in my cnc lathe for a few different blockers. So far, i`ve had super good luck with my own blockers.

PaPow, It's neat that you can make them! My brother used to be a machinist before he became an engineer (recently retired) so the striker block plunger would have been easy for him to make as well. I suppose you don't market them due to liability issues as you sure could have quite a market! Do the blockers that you make have a profile more similar to the latest Apex striker block or the Performance Center striker block which has an even more rounded dome with an even smaller flat portion?
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Old May 8th, 2017, 07:58 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by texagun View Post
PaPow,
Sounds like you got a "late Friday afternoon" gun. Mine was perfect right out of the box. I'm pretty anal about these things but I couldn't find anything that needed "fixin" on this gun, except for the overly-aggressive sharp finish on the grips. I took some 400 grit wet-or-dry and that problem was fixed in less than 5 minutes. I just took the "points" off the texture where it was irritating my hand and you can't tell visually if it was ever touched. Now it feels perfect and still retains a grip that stays in your hand where you put it. The trigger on my gun was excellent right out of the box, and better than any Shield trigger I have ever tried. Overall, this is probably one of the best values in a light, compact, concealable carry gun in .45 ACP, currently available at a bargain price.

LOL... i think your right tex...lol... it had to be made on a friday. I think for the most part, most of you guys are likely right, about your shield 45`s, and most of them likely dont need any work. But its just how my luck goes with anything i`m involved with, i always end up with the shitty end of the stick every time...lol.

Its ok though, i really love how nice this gun shoots, its unbelievably super accurate, that alone makes me VERY pleased with the gun. Everything else is just a wash for me. I do some pretty heavy duty gun work on my own stuff, so it actually worked out great for me... i get to tinker with it...lol. And THATS likely the reason i am so damn fussy, because i KNOW how to make it better. My dad always told me that i was always to smart for my own good and that i am never satisfied with anything, because i`m always trying to make something work much better. Picky lil`basterd ain`t i...lol.

Absolutely spot on brother, a gun like this for $319 bucks, h-e-l-l yeahhhhhhh...!!!!

And YES, that grip texture has got to gooooooooooooo...! Talon tape is already on the way...!!!!


Last edited by PaPow; May 8th, 2017 at 08:04 PM.
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Old May 8th, 2017, 08:02 PM   #20
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One big deal breaker for me, is that damn stepped feeling in the trigger, all caused by that dumazz flat striker block. It would wear down over time, but i dont have the patients to wait for that to happen, i just gotta make it better right now. Thats just how i`m wired i guess.
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Old May 8th, 2017, 09:36 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yankee45 View Post
PaPow, It's neat that you can make them! My brother used to be a machinist before he became an engineer (recently retired) so the striker block plunger would have been easy for him to make as well. I suppose you don't market them due to liability issues as you sure could have quite a market! Do the blockers that you make have a profile more similar to the latest Apex striker block or the Performance Center striker block which has an even more rounded dome with an even smaller flat portion?
Your exactly right Yankee, its a big liability... i do not market what i make, and i do not make money on them. I have a couple really close friends that i make things for, but thats it, my two friends dont pay me anything other than what it costs me to buy some of the materials. My time is their time, we`re great friends, we help each other whenever we can. This is just a hobby for me, and i have no plans on going any further with what i`m doing. Every time i`ve turned a hobby into a business, i hated every day of it afterwards. So, this time, it stays a hobby because i`m having so much fun doing it. When your own ideas come to life, it puts a really big smile on your face.

Yes, they CAN be VERY easily made, if you want to copy what SW & Apex has, but mine are definitely different than both of their`s. I was never really satisfied with how they make their`s, so i started making my own on a cnc lathe. My design works WAY smoother. You can`t even feel the striker block when the trigger bar runs on it. Mine get highly polished only by me. You get NO clicky sounds from mine... very smooth, very quite, NO hitching, No jumpiness. And the best part of it is, not one single failure yet to date.

The latest thing i`m looking into, is using the Rolomatic XL620 grinder to make the striker blockers. I can cut the time in half running the parts on the Rolomatic grinder. Also cuts the polishing time next to nothing. Lathe`s leave to many tooling marks, the grinders do not. I am using the borozon diamond wheels, they do a sweet job of grinding. I`ve got some headed to electro-polish to see what they look like when they`re done... but i think the grinder will make just as nice of a polished part without adding in an extra process of electro-polish... but we`ll see, i`m still writing the program for the rolomatic grinder (again). Right now i`m just hand wheeling them into the grind wheels and grinding manually. (very slow process...lol)

I`m also making stainless guide rods now... with 3 piece guide rod, 3 springs. Ones that you can unscrew and take apart to clean. Threaded internally with positive internal locking technic...THESE are very neat...! These guide rods are just for me though, i wont let anyone have these in their gun... still into the testing phase of them right now.

And so that i`m clear, to all, that read this, please dont contact me to try to buy what i make, my parts are not for sale... just want to make sure that its clear up front to everyone. I dont mind sharing what i do with all of you, but its up to you to figure out your own way just like i have. Please understand, that there ARE liability issues that i DONT want to deal with. We`ll just keep it at that. I do work for a HUGE world wide company, so i am to busy to make anything for anyone anyway. Maybe when i finally retire (very soon), i might think differently about my free time. But right now, there are NO PLANS for marketing...sorry guys. Would i have quite the market, yeah i bet i could kick-ass with my parts, but i`m not really interested in doing so.

Last edited by PaPow; May 8th, 2017 at 09:43 PM.
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Old May 9th, 2017, 02:49 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by PaPow View Post
Your exactly right Yankee, its a big liability... i do not market what i make, and i do not make money on them. I have a couple really close friends that i make things for, but thats it, my two friends dont pay me anything other than what it costs me to buy some of the materials. My time is their time, we`re great friends, we help each other whenever we can. This is just a hobby for me, and i have no plans on going any further with what i`m doing. Every time i`ve turned a hobby into a business, i hated every day of it afterwards. So, this time, it stays a hobby because i`m having so much fun doing it. When your own ideas come to life, it puts a really big smile on your face.

Yes, they CAN be VERY easily made, if you want to copy what SW & Apex has, but mine are definitely different than both of their`s. I was never really satisfied with how they make their`s, so i started making my own on a cnc lathe. My design works WAY smoother. You can`t even feel the striker block when the trigger bar runs on it. Mine get highly polished only by me. You get NO clicky sounds from mine... very smooth, very quite, NO hitching, No jumpiness. And the best part of it is, not one single failure yet to date.

The latest thing i`m looking into, is using the Rolomatic XL620 grinder to make the striker blockers. I can cut the time in half running the parts on the Rolomatic grinder. Also cuts the polishing time next to nothing. Lathe`s leave to many tooling marks, the grinders do not. I am using the borozon diamond wheels, they do a sweet job of grinding. I`ve got some headed to electro-polish to see what they look like when they`re done... but i think the grinder will make just as nice of a polished part without adding in an extra process of electro-polish... but we`ll see, i`m still writing the program for the rolomatic grinder (again). Right now i`m just hand wheeling them into the grind wheels and grinding manually. (very slow process...lol)

I`m also making stainless guide rods now... with 3 piece guide rod, 3 springs. Ones that you can unscrew and take apart to clean. Threaded internally with positive internal locking technic...THESE are very neat...! These guide rods are just for me though, i wont let anyone have these in their gun... still into the testing phase of them right now.

And so that i`m clear, to all, that read this, please dont contact me to try to buy what i make, my parts are not for sale... just want to make sure that its clear up front to everyone. I dont mind sharing what i do with all of you, but its up to you to figure out your own way just like i have. Please understand, that there ARE liability issues that i DONT want to deal with. We`ll just keep it at that. I do work for a HUGE world wide company, so i am to busy to make anything for anyone anyway. Maybe when i finally retire (very soon), i might think differently about my free time. But right now, there are NO PLANS for marketing...sorry guys. Would i have quite the market, yeah i bet i could kick-ass with my parts, but i`m not really interested in doing so.
Hey Buddy,

As a simple hobby tinkerer, with no skills anywhere near yours, I enjoy learning about what you're doing. No, I don't want to buy anything, but I'm sure you could sell what you make. I'm considering making my own profile on a standard striker block. I have both Apex and S&W Performance Center striker blocks to compare and play with. I'm not sure which of them is better either.

When I fist came on here again earlier this year, you and others suggested that I go straight to Apex parts and I would be finished with my gun. That might work for someone who doesn't want to understand why the design of some parts might work better than others or who isn't too particular about what he wants. However, someone like me isn't going to do that without understanding better how other parts and combinations might work. Hence my stubborn playing around with PC parts as well. You soon said that you understood why I was doing what I was doing while others continued to press Apex. Well, I'm happier doing it my way and have come to what I am using in my Shield right now, which is a PC sear with standard sear spring along with an Apex striker block and striker block spring. I don't want my trigger pull to be lighter than the current 4.75 lbs and the PC sear along with the Apex striker blocker and spring does everything (smooth take up with short, audible and tactile reset) that using the Apex sear and striker bock would do without lightening the pull too much. which I knew that the Apex sear would do. Playing with it my way is what makes me happy.

Last edited by Yankee45; May 9th, 2017 at 02:53 AM.
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Old May 9th, 2017, 06:02 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yankee45 View Post
Hey Buddy,

As a simple hobby tinkerer, with no skills anywhere near yours, I enjoy learning about what you're doing. No, I don't want to buy anything, but I'm sure you could sell what you make. I'm considering making my own profile on a standard striker block. I have both Apex and S&W Performance Center striker blocks to compare and play with. I'm not sure which of them is better either.

When I fist came on here again earlier this year, you and others suggested that I go straight to Apex parts and I would be finished with my gun. That might work for someone who doesn't want to understand why the design of some parts might work better than others or who isn't too particular about what he wants. However, someone like me isn't going to do that without understanding better how other parts and combinations might work. Hence my stubborn playing around with PC parts as well. You soon said that you understood why I was doing what I was doing while others continued to press Apex. Well, I'm happier doing it my way and have come to what I am using in my Shield right now, which is a PC sear with standard sear spring along with an Apex striker block and striker block spring. I don't want my trigger pull to be lighter than the current 4.75 lbs and the PC sear along with the Apex striker blocker and spring does everything (smooth take up with short, audible and tactile reset) that using the Apex sear and striker bock would do without lightening the pull too much. which I knew that the Apex sear would do. Playing with it my way is what makes me happy.
We are brothers from different mothers my friend. I totally get what your saying and i DO understand what you`re trying to do.


Last edited by PaPow; May 9th, 2017 at 06:05 AM.
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Old May 11th, 2017, 10:38 AM   #24
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Congratulations!
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Old May 22nd, 2017, 04:34 AM   #25
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Hey, PaPow

Here's a link to one of your posts which links to an Apex video which shows the difference between the standard M&P striker block used in the 9 and 40 Shields vs the very different striker block with a "hat" used in the 45 Shield.

Shield 45 - Striker Block

Also, I'm wondering if you use the standard stiff M&P striker block spring in you pistols or do you use a lighter spring like Apex sells? I have found that much of the grittiness is removed just by replacing the standard spring. The Apex spring is a little shorter than the standard M&P spring while the Apex striker block spring hole is not quite as deep as the spring hole in the M&P striker block is. This compensates for the shorter Apex spring.
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Old May 22nd, 2017, 05:51 AM   #26
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Hey, PaPow

Here's a link to one of your posts which links to an Apex video which shows the difference between the standard M&P striker block used in the 9 and 40 Shields vs the very different striker block with a "hat" used in the 45 Shield.

Shield 45 - Striker Block

Also, I'm wondering if you use the standard stiff M&P striker block spring in you pistols or do you use a lighter spring like Apex sells? I have found that much of the grittiness is removed just by replacing the standard spring. The Apex spring is a little shorter than the standard M&P spring while the Apex striker block spring hole is not quite as deep as the spring hole in the M&P striker block is. This compensates for the shorter Apex spring.
I was the one who put the video in there. I was proving that i was wrong, thinking they were all the same, they are not.

I have a vendor that supplies all my gun springs... the blocker spring i chose is in between the S&W and Apex. I find the S&W to be to much, and the Apex not quite enough, for me, so mine fall within the middle as far as tension/function purposes. I also dont drill the hole as deep as S&W does on their blocker. If the hole is deeper, it tends to take away smoothness when the blocker works up and down. I also change out the short spring on the striker too, to add just a tiny bit more authority to its function while its working within the striker/blocker for a more positive function.
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