$0.00 internal overtravel stop - MP-Pistol Forum

$0.00 internal overtravel stop

This is a discussion on $0.00 internal overtravel stop within the MP Talk forums, part of the Smith & Wesson MP Forum category; My trigger is more better now. Based on something posted in another handgun forum, I realized an internal overtravel stop for the M&P would be ...


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Old June 15th, 2016, 12:18 PM   #1
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$0.00 internal overtravel stop

My trigger is more better now. Based on something posted in another handgun forum, I realized an internal overtravel stop for the M&P would be incredibly easy to do.

Keeping the gun legal in USPSA Production and IDPA's SSP meant a setscrew in the trigger itself is a no no, and that I needed to do it internally. "no external modifications" is the rule of the day. So... out came the welder.

Pic 1: factory trigger bar. This tab sticking up is what moves the firing pin safety out of the way when you pull the trigger.

Pic 2: Add a little tack weld and begin filing to shape...

Pic 3: I fitted it to the gun very slowly with light passes of a file, test function, and repeated until the striker fell. It looks like this when done. The trigger is all the way to the rear and you can see how the trigger bar runs into the sear housing at that point, now.

Pic 4: Position of trigger if you pull it as hard as you can. The pull weight feels about a pound lighter now, and around 40% of the reset travel just disappeared. I did my girlfriend's gun immediately after doing mine... and I bet I'll probably do all the local USPSA shooter's guns very soon once they feel how much things improved!

Find a friend with a welder. It's worth taking the time to do this. Mixed with APEX goodies inside the gun, it results in a very nice trigger!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg overtravel 01.jpg (74.2 KB, 112 views)
File Type: jpg overtravel 02.jpg (108.6 KB, 125 views)
File Type: jpg overtravel 03.JPG (77.7 KB, 112 views)
File Type: jpg overtravel 04.jpg (46.0 KB, 98 views)
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Old June 15th, 2016, 02:14 PM   #2
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For those don't have any friends, or a friend that is not a welder you might consider this over-travel modification as well, especially as it does not change the normal engagement of the trigger bar ramp with the firing pin block.
Also, when you tire of the modification, just remove the set screw and you are basically back to stock sear housing with an unmolested trigger bar. This a just-for-fun modification and should not be considered for a duty / personal protection use firearm.



For those that don't get along with small screws, a larger screw is easily tapped into the polymer frame, the length set to desired over-travel; use a dab of loctite to keep it secured.





Caution: Pseudo-science and / or amateur photos-diagrams may be embedded in this post.

Last edited by mp9werks; June 15th, 2016 at 02:28 PM.
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Old June 15th, 2016, 04:20 PM   #3
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I had considered a setscrew intially, but didn't think of using it where that button-head screw is in the bottom photos. That's a great way to do it - unlike many other firearms the M&P's trigger bar shifts laterally, which complicated my initial plan to position a setscrew. I didn't think of locating it where your second one is.

Obviously, having a welder handy still made my method the easiest and fastest, so I'd have gone this route anyway. But those are excellent options.

I've already got one gentleman off of another forum mailing me a trigger bar to weld, which I'll happily do for him or anyone else as long as they cover round trip shipping, too. It's a very quick, easy job.
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Old December 5th, 2016, 04:22 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MemphisMechanic View Post
My trigger is more better now. Based on something posted in another handgun forum, I realized an internal overtravel stop for the M&P would be incredibly easy to do.

Keeping the gun legal in USPSA Production and IDPA's SSP meant a setscrew in the trigger itself is a no no, and that I needed to do it internally. "no external modifications" is the rule of the day. So... out came the welder.

Pic 1: factory trigger bar. This tab sticking up is what moves the firing pin safety out of the way when you pull the trigger.

Pic 2: Add a little tack weld and begin filing to shape...

Pic 3: I fitted it to the gun very slowly with light passes of a file, test function, and repeated until the striker fell. It looks like this when done. The trigger is all the way to the rear and you can see how the trigger bar runs into the sear housing at that point, now.

Pic 4: Position of trigger if you pull it as hard as you can. The pull weight feels about a pound lighter now, and around 40% of the reset travel just disappeared. I did my girlfriend's gun immediately after doing mine... and I bet I'll probably do all the local USPSA shooter's guns very soon once they feel how much things improved!

Find a friend with a welder. It's worth taking the time to do this. Mixed with APEX goodies inside the gun, it results in a very nice trigger!
What happened to your pictures. I am interested in this mod.
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Old December 5th, 2016, 01:24 PM   #5
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What happened to your pictures. I am interested in this mod.
The original posters pics are fine. Its the second persons modification that is missing
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Old December 9th, 2016, 09:34 AM   #6
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Well hell. NICE! and since its internal, it remains IDPA and USPSA production legal. At least from my understanding.

Might need to get with you on my M&P9 Pro 5".
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Old December 9th, 2016, 03:36 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by mp9werks View Post
For those don't have any friends, or a friend that is not a welder you might consider this over-travel modification as well, especially as it does not change the normal engagement of the trigger bar ramp with the firing pin block.
Also, when you tire of the modification, just remove the set screw and you are basically back to stock sear housing with an unmolested trigger bar. This a just-for-fun modification and should not be considered for a duty / personal protection use firearm.



For those that don't get along with small screws, a larger screw is easily tapped into the polymer frame, the length set to desired over-travel; use a dab of loctite to keep it secured.





Caution: Pseudo-science and / or amateur photos-diagrams may be embedded in this post.
These are the pictures that are not showing up. Am I the only one who can't see them?
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Old December 9th, 2016, 07:48 PM   #8
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These are the pictures that are not showing up. Am I the only one who can't see them?
That person has either deleted or moved those images, nobody can see them now.

You might contact mp9werks and see if he can repost them. Left click on his user name, a drop down list appears, select 'Send private message to mp9werks'.

Last edited by G56; December 9th, 2016 at 07:52 PM.
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Old December 10th, 2016, 03:15 AM   #9
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OK thanks
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Old December 17th, 2016, 06:39 AM   #10
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Neat trick, cool for a range toy but, I wouldn't even consider it for a tool I was gonna bet my life on.
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Old December 17th, 2016, 09:10 AM   #11
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Neat trick, cool for a range toy but, I wouldn't even consider it for a tool I was gonna bet my life on.
I couldn`t agree more
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Old January 13th, 2017, 03:30 PM   #12
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You can do the same thing to reduce take up. Tig a small spot at the front of the trigger bar so it contacts the frame and pushes the trigger bar back a bit. Adjust as necessary.
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Old January 13th, 2017, 08:02 PM   #13
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I drilled and tapped mine, fully adjustable outside the gun by way of a 4-40 set screw.
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Old January 14th, 2017, 05:59 AM   #14
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I drilled and tapped mine, fully adjustable outside the gun by way of a 4-40 set screw.
Picture?
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Old January 14th, 2017, 07:41 AM   #15
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Picture?
Sorry, no pics, i dont have a camera.
I`ve patented my design as well, so i wont give out anymore info on it.

Last edited by PaPow; January 14th, 2017 at 07:44 AM.
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